毛绒型织物风格评价模型的研究与应用
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摘要
织物风格是影响纺织品服用性能的最重要的因素之一,系统而定量地评价织物的风格和性能,研究影响织物风格的因素,对纺织品的设计和产品性能的提高是一条有效而重要的途径。本文采集了四类115只毛绒型织物样品,测试分析其主要规格参数,选择FAST系统、YG541A折皱弹性仪、YG811悬垂仪、YG(B)461D透气量仪和FA1004重量仪等仪器测试样品的31项性能指标。运用主因子分析法研究并建立了毛绒型织物风格的评价模型;运用相关分析法研究织物风格的影响因素;运用研究结果指导毛绒型织物的设计与生产,实现产品风格和性能的优化、提升。
(1)在毛绒型织物31项性能指标的基础上,采用主因子分析法,以主因子的载荷系数和贡献率为依据,根据累积贡献率选取主因子个数,根据主因子主要决定因素的积极影响和消极影响选择载荷系数的正负,根据主因子的贡献率计算织物风格综合评价载荷系数,建立了织物风格的主因子和综合评价模型矩阵Z=KY,定量地评价织物风格,为同类织物的评优提供了定量的计算方法,系本文的主要贡献之一。
(2)采用VB语言和Matlab的Matrix编制了织物风格主因子分析的可视化程序,解决主因子分析中大量而繁琐的数学运算,程序直接用于毛绒型织物的风格评价,具有普适性和继续使用价值,为织物风格的定量评价提供了一种快速、准确的实现手段。
(3)通过织物风格主因子分析的可视化程序,分别得到毛及其混纺织物和仿毛织物风格的6个主因子、经仿麂皮绒与纬仿麂皮绒织物和水洗绒织物风格的5个主因子,并定量计算织物风格的主因子和综合评价得分、排序,绘制织物手印图,判定织物风格与性能的优劣,比较系统而客观地表达了织物的风格特征。
(4)将相关分析法应用于织物风格研究,成功地建立了织物性能指标、织物风格与织物规格参数之间的关系。针对毛绒型织物,通过建立织物性能指标与规格参数组合表,根据相关系数的大小和高度相关、显著相关因素出现的频率,筛选出织物规格参数中影响织物风格、性能指标的高度相关因素和显著相关因素,指导织物的设计与生产。论文研究结果表明,织物重量、经纬向缩率是影响毛绒型织物风格的最主要因素。
(5)运用织物风格评价模型和织物规格参数对织物风格的影响规律,指导毛织物——花呢和板司呢、仿毛织物——缎背彩色呢和双弹仿毛花呢的设计与试生产,经测试均达到了理想的效果。这一实践表明织物风格评价模型及其相关因素分析是一个有效而实用的方法,能够用于指导织物风格的设计与优化。
Fabric style is one of the most important factors which affect wear property of textiles. It is an effective and important approach for the textile design and product performance improvement to study the influencing factors of fabric style and evaluate style and property systemically and quantitatively. 115 four kind of wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics are selected as sample to analyze their main specification parameters, and such instrument as FAST system, YG541A crease recovery tester, YG811 fabric drape meter, YG(B)461D numerical type fabric permeability instrument, FA1004 fabric weight tester an so on are chosen to measure 31 property parameters of the samples. Style evaluation models of wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics are studied and established with principal factor analysis method, and the influencing factors of fabric style are also studied with correlation analysis method. Applying the research results to the design and manufacture of wool and wool-like suede-like nap fabrics, the fabric style and the performance can be optimized or improved.
(1) Based on the 31 property parameters, fabric style is studied by making use of principal factor analysis method. First, in accordance with loading coefficient and proportion, the number of principal factor is chosen by the cumulative proportion. Second, positive or negative sign of loading is chosen by the positive or negative effects of the principal factor’s primary determinant. Then total style evaluation loading coefficient is calculated according to proportion of the principal factor. Finally, the principal factor and total evaluation model matrix of fabric style is established, which is given as Z=KY. As one of the primary contributions of this paper, the model evaluates fabric style quantitatively and provides quantitative calculation methods for the appraisement of the congener fabric.
(2) In order to solve the plentiful and fussy mathematical operation of principal factor analysis, corresponding visualized application is programmed through VB and Matrix of Matlab. The application has been directly adopted to evaluate four kinds of the wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics, having common applicability and continued use value. It supplies the achievement of quantitative evaluation on fabric style with a fast and exact means.
(3) Through the visual application, 6 principal factors of wool or blended fabric, wool-like fabric are obtained, so are the 5 factors of warp suede-like, weft suede-like, washable velvet fabric. The principal factor or total evaluation score and ranking can also be calculated quantitatively, and fingerprint chart drawn, the superiority or inferiority of fabric style and property judged. In a word, it can express the fabric style characteristics systemically and objectively.
(4) By making use of the correlation analysis method to study fabric style, the relations among property parameters, fabric style and specification parameters are founded successfully. Aiming at wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics, this paper first establishes the combined form between property parameters and specification parameters; then according to the magnitude of correlation coefficient, the frequency of the highly or prominently correlated factor, screens out the highly or prominently correlated factors of specification parameters affecting fabric performance or fabric style to assist fabric design and production. The research result shows that the weight of fabric, shrinkages of warp and weft are the most important influencing factors of fabric style.
(5) With the guidance of fabric style evaluation model and the effect rule of specification parameters on fabric style, such wool fabric as fancy suiting and Hopsack, such wool-like fabric as satin-back colorful suiting and double elastic fancy wool-like fabric are designed and manufactured, both of which are tested to achieve ideal effect. This practice shows that fabric style evaluation model and the analysis of correlative factors is an effective and practical approach,which could be taken advantage of to guide and optimize fabric style design.
(1)在毛绒型织物31项性能指标的基础上,采用主因子分析法,以主因子的载荷系数和贡献率为依据,根据累积贡献率选取主因子个数,根据主因子主要决定因素的积极影响和消极影响选择载荷系数的正负,根据主因子的贡献率计算织物风格综合评价载荷系数,建立了织物风格的主因子和综合评价模型矩阵Z=KY,定量地评价织物风格,为同类织物的评优提供了定量的计算方法,系本文的主要贡献之一。
(2)采用VB语言和Matlab的Matrix编制了织物风格主因子分析的可视化程序,解决主因子分析中大量而繁琐的数学运算,程序直接用于毛绒型织物的风格评价,具有普适性和继续使用价值,为织物风格的定量评价提供了一种快速、准确的实现手段。
(3)通过织物风格主因子分析的可视化程序,分别得到毛及其混纺织物和仿毛织物风格的6个主因子、经仿麂皮绒与纬仿麂皮绒织物和水洗绒织物风格的5个主因子,并定量计算织物风格的主因子和综合评价得分、排序,绘制织物手印图,判定织物风格与性能的优劣,比较系统而客观地表达了织物的风格特征。
(4)将相关分析法应用于织物风格研究,成功地建立了织物性能指标、织物风格与织物规格参数之间的关系。针对毛绒型织物,通过建立织物性能指标与规格参数组合表,根据相关系数的大小和高度相关、显著相关因素出现的频率,筛选出织物规格参数中影响织物风格、性能指标的高度相关因素和显著相关因素,指导织物的设计与生产。论文研究结果表明,织物重量、经纬向缩率是影响毛绒型织物风格的最主要因素。
(5)运用织物风格评价模型和织物规格参数对织物风格的影响规律,指导毛织物——花呢和板司呢、仿毛织物——缎背彩色呢和双弹仿毛花呢的设计与试生产,经测试均达到了理想的效果。这一实践表明织物风格评价模型及其相关因素分析是一个有效而实用的方法,能够用于指导织物风格的设计与优化。
Fabric style is one of the most important factors which affect wear property of textiles. It is an effective and important approach for the textile design and product performance improvement to study the influencing factors of fabric style and evaluate style and property systemically and quantitatively. 115 four kind of wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics are selected as sample to analyze their main specification parameters, and such instrument as FAST system, YG541A crease recovery tester, YG811 fabric drape meter, YG(B)461D numerical type fabric permeability instrument, FA1004 fabric weight tester an so on are chosen to measure 31 property parameters of the samples. Style evaluation models of wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics are studied and established with principal factor analysis method, and the influencing factors of fabric style are also studied with correlation analysis method. Applying the research results to the design and manufacture of wool and wool-like suede-like nap fabrics, the fabric style and the performance can be optimized or improved.
(1) Based on the 31 property parameters, fabric style is studied by making use of principal factor analysis method. First, in accordance with loading coefficient and proportion, the number of principal factor is chosen by the cumulative proportion. Second, positive or negative sign of loading is chosen by the positive or negative effects of the principal factor’s primary determinant. Then total style evaluation loading coefficient is calculated according to proportion of the principal factor. Finally, the principal factor and total evaluation model matrix of fabric style is established, which is given as Z=KY. As one of the primary contributions of this paper, the model evaluates fabric style quantitatively and provides quantitative calculation methods for the appraisement of the congener fabric.
(2) In order to solve the plentiful and fussy mathematical operation of principal factor analysis, corresponding visualized application is programmed through VB and Matrix of Matlab. The application has been directly adopted to evaluate four kinds of the wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics, having common applicability and continued use value. It supplies the achievement of quantitative evaluation on fabric style with a fast and exact means.
(3) Through the visual application, 6 principal factors of wool or blended fabric, wool-like fabric are obtained, so are the 5 factors of warp suede-like, weft suede-like, washable velvet fabric. The principal factor or total evaluation score and ranking can also be calculated quantitatively, and fingerprint chart drawn, the superiority or inferiority of fabric style and property judged. In a word, it can express the fabric style characteristics systemically and objectively.
(4) By making use of the correlation analysis method to study fabric style, the relations among property parameters, fabric style and specification parameters are founded successfully. Aiming at wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics, this paper first establishes the combined form between property parameters and specification parameters; then according to the magnitude of correlation coefficient, the frequency of the highly or prominently correlated factor, screens out the highly or prominently correlated factors of specification parameters affecting fabric performance or fabric style to assist fabric design and production. The research result shows that the weight of fabric, shrinkages of warp and weft are the most important influencing factors of fabric style.
(5) With the guidance of fabric style evaluation model and the effect rule of specification parameters on fabric style, such wool fabric as fancy suiting and Hopsack, such wool-like fabric as satin-back colorful suiting and double elastic fancy wool-like fabric are designed and manufactured, both of which are tested to achieve ideal effect. This practice shows that fabric style evaluation model and the analysis of correlative factors is an effective and practical approach,which could be taken advantage of to guide and optimize fabric style design.
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