黄麻纤维精细化及其染整深加工研究
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摘要
黄麻是一种天然可再生纤维素纤维,具有与苎麻、亚麻等麻类纤维一样的优良特性和独特风格,如凉爽、透气、舒适和优良的吸放湿性,且可生物降解。但黄麻纤维素含量低,手感粗硬,刚度大,抱合力差,不适合纺纱。所以,黄麻纤维传统上主要用于制作麻袋、绳索、包装材料和粗麻布等。近年来,经过科研工作者的共同努力,虽然较大程度地改善了黄麻纤维的可纺性,但黄麻纱线支数仍然很低,仅能满足室内装饰品、地毯等纺织品的要求,还不能用于生产服用纺织品。此外,黄麻及其混纺织物存在易泛黄和易起皱等缺陷,且染深色性较差。因此,本论文就黄麻纤维的精细化和染整深加工进行研究。
本论文首先研究了黄麻纤维的化学、生物酶及生化联合精细化技术。预浸酸可有效提高碱处理效率,添加剂的种类和用量对纤维的断裂强度、分裂度有显著影响,保险粉和过氧化氢具有互补作用,其联合漂白作用可达到亚氯酸钠漂白效果,还可提高纤维的分裂度;果胶酶和木聚糖酶具有良好的协同效应,在生物酶处理之前进行碱处理可改善精细化效果,经生化联合精细化处理,黄麻纤维中的大部分杂质已被去除,显著提高纤维的分裂度和表面光洁度。在一定处理条件下,化学精细化在提高结晶度的同时不会影响纤维的晶形结构;精细化处理对黄麻纤维的热分解性能具有一定的影响,可降低最大热分解温度。
黄麻纤维织物前处理研究是本论文的重要内容之一。首先比较了酸退浆、碱退浆、氧化剂退浆和生物酶退浆对退浆率的影响,发现苏红退浆酶2000L有较高的退浆效率。在酶处理之前进行热水预处理可提高退浆效果,退浆后仅需一次热水洗涤即可获得较高的退浆率。最佳退浆工艺及流程为:预处理(渗透剂JFC 1g/L,浴比1:20,温度80℃,时间20min)→酶处理(SDL0.8g/L,渗透剂JFC 1g/L,pH值为中性,浴比1:20,70℃处理45min)→热水洗(80℃洗涤2min)。还研究了无氢氧化钠存在的条件下,低温练、漂一浴法处理技术。与常规二浴二步法相比,处理织物的失重小、断裂强力高和润湿性能优良(t＜1s),但白度欠佳。白度要求较高或染浅色产品,练、漂一浴法处理后需要加一道漂白处理。练、漂一浴法的最佳整理工艺为:精练剂TA-1106ml/L,双氧水7ml/L,双氧水促活剂TA-1162ml/L,JFC 1g/L,浴比1:20,温度75℃,时间50min(TA-116添加前处理30min,添加后处理20min)。
改善和提高黄麻纤维织物的染色性能是本论文的另一个重点。论文研究了缩水甘油三甲基氯化铵(Glytac)对黄麻纤维织物的改性技术及其改性对织物染色性能的影响。黄麻纤维织物Glytac改性可进行低盐、低碱染色,降低染色温度,提高染料利用率、染色提升性、水洗色牢度和摩擦色牢度,而不会影响日晒色牢度和匀染性。最佳改性条件为:Glytac 40g/L,氢氧化钠8g/L,JFC 2g/L,浴比1:20,温度60℃,时间45min。此外,通过染色热力学和染色动力学研究得知:改性织物的吸附等温线属朗缪尔型,其吸附性能与Pseudo二级速率方程具有很好的拟合性(R~2＞0.9945);活性染料染Glytac改性织物属放热反应,随着温度的升高,染料的吸附速度加快,但染料在织物上的饱和吸附值和标准亲和力减小。
本论文还研究了生物酶、柔软剂及两者结合的整理技术对黄麻纤维织物柔软性能和刺痒感的影响。生物酶和柔软剂虽然能在一定程度上改善黄麻纤维织物的柔软性和刺痒感,但不能完全消除刺痒感。而在生物酶处理后,再用柔软剂对织物进行处理,可进一步改善织物的手感,并消除织物与皮肤接触时产生的刺痒感。通过对酸性、中性和碱性纤维素酶的比较发现酸性纤维素酶Cellusoft L改善黄麻纤维织物的手感和刺痒感有很好的效果,其最佳整理工艺为:Cellusoft L 3.0%(o.w.f),JFC 2g/L,pH值4.8,浴比1:10,温度50℃,时间60min。此外,研究发现氨基硅油8040是一种较适合于黄麻纤维织物的柔软整理剂,其最优化整理工艺条件为:804015g/L,JFC 2g/L,轧余率90%,预烘温度80℃,预烘时间3.0min,焙烘温度150℃,焙烘时间3.5min。
为了提高黄麻纤维织物的形态稳定性,论文还用乙二醛做为交联剂,着重研究了催化剂、添加剂及其处理条件对整理效果的影响。氯化镁是一种效果优良的催化剂,可降低焙烘温度,但会影响断裂强力;三乙醇胺、壳聚糖和次亚磷酸钠均可在一定程度上提高断裂强力,但会影响折皱回复性;三乙醇胺、壳聚糖和次亚磷酸钠具有很好的协同作用,可在提高断裂强力的同时,减小对折皱回复角的影响;氨基硅油柔软剂有利于折皱回复性和断裂强力的提高。乙二醛整理的最佳工艺为:乙二醛60g/L,氯化镁60g/L,壳聚糖0.8g/L,次亚磷酸钠24g/L,三乙醇胺10g/L,氨基硅油804020g/L,轧余率100%,预烘温度90℃,预烘时间3min,焙烘温度140℃,焙烘时间3min。
Jute is a natural renewable cellulosic fiber,which has the similar excellent features and special styles as ramie and flax,such as coolness,air permeability,comfortability, excellent moisture adsorption and discharging,biodegradable and so on,but jute also has some disadvantages viz.lower cellulose content,coarseness,stiffness,high rigidity, poor spinnability,et al.Therefore,jute is basically used for traditional purposes such as sackings,ropes,packaging materials and hessian.Recently,although the spinnability of jute fiber has been considerably improved by the cooperative endeavors of researchers, the lower count jute yarns just can meet the demands of upholsters and carpets,which is not suitable for garment textiles.Furthermore,jute and jute blended fabric has poor crease recovery,yellowing and browning tendency,poor deep dyeability and some other disadvantages.Taking account of the above problems,the refining,dyeing and finishing of jute fiber has been studied in this thesis.
Firstly,the chemical,enzymatic and combination of chemical and enzymatic treatments were applied to study the refining of jute fiber.The results showed that pre-acid treatment could alleviate the burden of alkali scouring,additives and their dosage had significant effect on breaking intensity and fineness of jute,sodium dithionite bleaching could cooperate with hydrogen peroxide bleaching to improve the whiteness index and fineness,and the combined bleaching of sodium dithionite and hydrogen peroxide could obtain the same efficiency as sodium chlorite bleaching. Pectinase and xylanase had goog synergistic effect,and the refining efficiency could be obviously improved when alkali scouring was carried out before enzyme treatment. After the combination refining treatment,most of the non-cellulosic materials had been removed,and the count and the surface cleanliness of jute fiber were considerably improved.Under a certain treatment condition,the chemical refining treatment would not change the crystalline structure while the crystallinity was improved.And the refining treatments would make the thermal decomposition temperature of jute fiber shift to lower temperature.
Pre-treatment of jute fabric is an impotant part of this thesis.The desizing ratio was used to evaluate the effect of acid desizing,alkali desizing,oxidant desizing and enzyme desizing.It was found that Suhong desizyme 2000L was a high effective desizing agent.The pre-hot water treatment was necessary for enhancing the desizing efficiency.After enzyme desizing treatment,favorable desizing ratio could be obtained just through one-step of hot water washing.The optimum desizing processes and conditions as following:pretreatment(JFC 1 g/L,liquid ratio 1:20,temperature 80℃and time 20 min)→enzyme desizing(desizyme 0.8 g/L,penetrating agent JFC 1 g/L, neutral pH,kept at 70℃for 45 rain with liquor ratio 1:20)→washing(temperature 80℃and time 2 min).Furthermore,the combination scouring and bleaching in one-bath at lower temperature in the absence of sodium hydroxide was studied. Compared with traditional two-bath-two-step method,the one bath way treated fabric had lower weight loss,higher breaking strength and good wettability(t<1s).But the whiteness index was poorer for the high whiteness index required or the tint dyed products.The optimal conditions was as follows:scouring agent TA-110 6 ml/L, hydrogen peroxide 7 ml/L,hydrogen peroxide activator TA-116 2 ml/L,JFC 1 g/L, liquor ratio 1:20,temperature 75℃,time 50 min(the treatment time before and after TA-116 addition is 30 min and 20 min respectively).
Another important part of the thesis is to improve the dyeability of jute fabric.The modification of glycidyl trimethyl ammonium chloride(Glytac) and its effect on the deyeabilities of jute fabric were studied.The results showed that Glytac modification could reduce the dosage of salt and alkali during the reactive dyes dyeing process and down dyeing temperature,increase dye utilization rate,build-up,washing fastness and rubbing fastness while the light fastness and the dyeing levelness were not affected.The optimal Glytac modification conditions was as follows:Glytac 40 g/L,sodium hydroxide 8 g/L,JFC 2 g/L,kept at 60℃for 45 min with liquor ratio 1:20.The results of dyeing thermodynamic and dyeing kinetic indicated that the adsorption isotherm of Glytac modified fabric fit well with Langmuir model,and the adsorption ability was correspond with the Pseudo second-order kinetic model(R~2>0.9945).The dyeing process of the modified jute fabric with reactive dyes is an exothermic reaction. The adsorption rate was accelerated when the dyeing temperature increased,but the equilibrium adsorption value and affinity reduced.
The effect of enzymes and softening agents on the softness and prickle of jute fabric were studied.Although enzymes and softening agents could improve the softness and alleviate the urtication feeling,it could not be completely eliminated.The softness of jute fabric could be further improved when the softening agent treatment was carried out after enzymatic treatment,and the urtication feeling could be completely eliminated. Compared with neutral cellulase and alkali cellulase,acid cellulase(Cellusoft L) was the most effective enzyme for improving the softness and prickle sensation of jute fabric. And the optimum treatment condition was as follows:Cellusoft L 3.0%(o.w.f),JFC 2 g/L,pH value 4.8,liquor ratiol:10,temperature 50℃and time 60 min.Moreover, ammo silicone oil 8040 is a favorable agent for jute fabric softening finishing,the optimum conditions for 8040 treatment was obtained as following:8040 15 g/L,JFC 2 g/L,pick-up 90%,pre-dry temperature 80℃and time 3.0 min,baking temperature 150℃and time 3.5 min.
When glyoxal was applied as crosslinking agent to improve jute fabric morphological stabability.Magnesium chloride(MgCl_2) was an effective catalyzer for the reaction between glyoxal and cellulose.MgCl_2 could reduce the baking temperature,but had negative effect on the breaking strength.The breaking strength could be improved when triethanolamine(TEA),chitosan and sodium hypophosphite(NaH_2PO_2) was applied respectively,while the wrinkle recovery angle(WRA) obviously decreased.The breaking strength could be significantly improved with little effect on WRA When TEA, chitosan and NaH_2PO_2 were applied in one bath.Furthermore,both the breaking strength and WRA increased when ammo silicone oil was applied.The conditions for glyoxal treatment were optimized as following:glyoxal 60 g/L,MgCl_2 60 g/L,chitosan 0.8 g/L,NaH_2PO_2 24 g/L,TEA 10 g/L,ammo silicone oil 8040 20 g/L,pick-up 100%, pre-dry temperature 90℃and time 3 min,baking temperature140℃and time 3 min.
本论文首先研究了黄麻纤维的化学、生物酶及生化联合精细化技术。预浸酸可有效提高碱处理效率,添加剂的种类和用量对纤维的断裂强度、分裂度有显著影响,保险粉和过氧化氢具有互补作用,其联合漂白作用可达到亚氯酸钠漂白效果,还可提高纤维的分裂度;果胶酶和木聚糖酶具有良好的协同效应,在生物酶处理之前进行碱处理可改善精细化效果,经生化联合精细化处理,黄麻纤维中的大部分杂质已被去除,显著提高纤维的分裂度和表面光洁度。在一定处理条件下,化学精细化在提高结晶度的同时不会影响纤维的晶形结构;精细化处理对黄麻纤维的热分解性能具有一定的影响,可降低最大热分解温度。
黄麻纤维织物前处理研究是本论文的重要内容之一。首先比较了酸退浆、碱退浆、氧化剂退浆和生物酶退浆对退浆率的影响,发现苏红退浆酶2000L有较高的退浆效率。在酶处理之前进行热水预处理可提高退浆效果,退浆后仅需一次热水洗涤即可获得较高的退浆率。最佳退浆工艺及流程为:预处理(渗透剂JFC 1g/L,浴比1:20,温度80℃,时间20min)→酶处理(SDL0.8g/L,渗透剂JFC 1g/L,pH值为中性,浴比1:20,70℃处理45min)→热水洗(80℃洗涤2min)。还研究了无氢氧化钠存在的条件下,低温练、漂一浴法处理技术。与常规二浴二步法相比,处理织物的失重小、断裂强力高和润湿性能优良(t＜1s),但白度欠佳。白度要求较高或染浅色产品,练、漂一浴法处理后需要加一道漂白处理。练、漂一浴法的最佳整理工艺为:精练剂TA-1106ml/L,双氧水7ml/L,双氧水促活剂TA-1162ml/L,JFC 1g/L,浴比1:20,温度75℃,时间50min(TA-116添加前处理30min,添加后处理20min)。
改善和提高黄麻纤维织物的染色性能是本论文的另一个重点。论文研究了缩水甘油三甲基氯化铵(Glytac)对黄麻纤维织物的改性技术及其改性对织物染色性能的影响。黄麻纤维织物Glytac改性可进行低盐、低碱染色,降低染色温度,提高染料利用率、染色提升性、水洗色牢度和摩擦色牢度,而不会影响日晒色牢度和匀染性。最佳改性条件为:Glytac 40g/L,氢氧化钠8g/L,JFC 2g/L,浴比1:20,温度60℃,时间45min。此外,通过染色热力学和染色动力学研究得知:改性织物的吸附等温线属朗缪尔型,其吸附性能与Pseudo二级速率方程具有很好的拟合性(R~2＞0.9945);活性染料染Glytac改性织物属放热反应,随着温度的升高,染料的吸附速度加快,但染料在织物上的饱和吸附值和标准亲和力减小。
本论文还研究了生物酶、柔软剂及两者结合的整理技术对黄麻纤维织物柔软性能和刺痒感的影响。生物酶和柔软剂虽然能在一定程度上改善黄麻纤维织物的柔软性和刺痒感,但不能完全消除刺痒感。而在生物酶处理后,再用柔软剂对织物进行处理,可进一步改善织物的手感,并消除织物与皮肤接触时产生的刺痒感。通过对酸性、中性和碱性纤维素酶的比较发现酸性纤维素酶Cellusoft L改善黄麻纤维织物的手感和刺痒感有很好的效果,其最佳整理工艺为:Cellusoft L 3.0%(o.w.f),JFC 2g/L,pH值4.8,浴比1:10,温度50℃,时间60min。此外,研究发现氨基硅油8040是一种较适合于黄麻纤维织物的柔软整理剂,其最优化整理工艺条件为:804015g/L,JFC 2g/L,轧余率90%,预烘温度80℃,预烘时间3.0min,焙烘温度150℃,焙烘时间3.5min。
为了提高黄麻纤维织物的形态稳定性,论文还用乙二醛做为交联剂,着重研究了催化剂、添加剂及其处理条件对整理效果的影响。氯化镁是一种效果优良的催化剂,可降低焙烘温度,但会影响断裂强力;三乙醇胺、壳聚糖和次亚磷酸钠均可在一定程度上提高断裂强力,但会影响折皱回复性;三乙醇胺、壳聚糖和次亚磷酸钠具有很好的协同作用,可在提高断裂强力的同时,减小对折皱回复角的影响;氨基硅油柔软剂有利于折皱回复性和断裂强力的提高。乙二醛整理的最佳工艺为:乙二醛60g/L,氯化镁60g/L,壳聚糖0.8g/L,次亚磷酸钠24g/L,三乙醇胺10g/L,氨基硅油804020g/L,轧余率100%,预烘温度90℃,预烘时间3min,焙烘温度140℃,焙烘时间3min。
Jute is a natural renewable cellulosic fiber,which has the similar excellent features and special styles as ramie and flax,such as coolness,air permeability,comfortability, excellent moisture adsorption and discharging,biodegradable and so on,but jute also has some disadvantages viz.lower cellulose content,coarseness,stiffness,high rigidity, poor spinnability,et al.Therefore,jute is basically used for traditional purposes such as sackings,ropes,packaging materials and hessian.Recently,although the spinnability of jute fiber has been considerably improved by the cooperative endeavors of researchers, the lower count jute yarns just can meet the demands of upholsters and carpets,which is not suitable for garment textiles.Furthermore,jute and jute blended fabric has poor crease recovery,yellowing and browning tendency,poor deep dyeability and some other disadvantages.Taking account of the above problems,the refining,dyeing and finishing of jute fiber has been studied in this thesis.
Firstly,the chemical,enzymatic and combination of chemical and enzymatic treatments were applied to study the refining of jute fiber.The results showed that pre-acid treatment could alleviate the burden of alkali scouring,additives and their dosage had significant effect on breaking intensity and fineness of jute,sodium dithionite bleaching could cooperate with hydrogen peroxide bleaching to improve the whiteness index and fineness,and the combined bleaching of sodium dithionite and hydrogen peroxide could obtain the same efficiency as sodium chlorite bleaching. Pectinase and xylanase had goog synergistic effect,and the refining efficiency could be obviously improved when alkali scouring was carried out before enzyme treatment. After the combination refining treatment,most of the non-cellulosic materials had been removed,and the count and the surface cleanliness of jute fiber were considerably improved.Under a certain treatment condition,the chemical refining treatment would not change the crystalline structure while the crystallinity was improved.And the refining treatments would make the thermal decomposition temperature of jute fiber shift to lower temperature.
Pre-treatment of jute fabric is an impotant part of this thesis.The desizing ratio was used to evaluate the effect of acid desizing,alkali desizing,oxidant desizing and enzyme desizing.It was found that Suhong desizyme 2000L was a high effective desizing agent.The pre-hot water treatment was necessary for enhancing the desizing efficiency.After enzyme desizing treatment,favorable desizing ratio could be obtained just through one-step of hot water washing.The optimum desizing processes and conditions as following:pretreatment(JFC 1 g/L,liquid ratio 1:20,temperature 80℃and time 20 min)→enzyme desizing(desizyme 0.8 g/L,penetrating agent JFC 1 g/L, neutral pH,kept at 70℃for 45 rain with liquor ratio 1:20)→washing(temperature 80℃and time 2 min).Furthermore,the combination scouring and bleaching in one-bath at lower temperature in the absence of sodium hydroxide was studied. Compared with traditional two-bath-two-step method,the one bath way treated fabric had lower weight loss,higher breaking strength and good wettability(t<1s).But the whiteness index was poorer for the high whiteness index required or the tint dyed products.The optimal conditions was as follows:scouring agent TA-110 6 ml/L, hydrogen peroxide 7 ml/L,hydrogen peroxide activator TA-116 2 ml/L,JFC 1 g/L, liquor ratio 1:20,temperature 75℃,time 50 min(the treatment time before and after TA-116 addition is 30 min and 20 min respectively).
Another important part of the thesis is to improve the dyeability of jute fabric.The modification of glycidyl trimethyl ammonium chloride(Glytac) and its effect on the deyeabilities of jute fabric were studied.The results showed that Glytac modification could reduce the dosage of salt and alkali during the reactive dyes dyeing process and down dyeing temperature,increase dye utilization rate,build-up,washing fastness and rubbing fastness while the light fastness and the dyeing levelness were not affected.The optimal Glytac modification conditions was as follows:Glytac 40 g/L,sodium hydroxide 8 g/L,JFC 2 g/L,kept at 60℃for 45 min with liquor ratio 1:20.The results of dyeing thermodynamic and dyeing kinetic indicated that the adsorption isotherm of Glytac modified fabric fit well with Langmuir model,and the adsorption ability was correspond with the Pseudo second-order kinetic model(R~2>0.9945).The dyeing process of the modified jute fabric with reactive dyes is an exothermic reaction. The adsorption rate was accelerated when the dyeing temperature increased,but the equilibrium adsorption value and affinity reduced.
The effect of enzymes and softening agents on the softness and prickle of jute fabric were studied.Although enzymes and softening agents could improve the softness and alleviate the urtication feeling,it could not be completely eliminated.The softness of jute fabric could be further improved when the softening agent treatment was carried out after enzymatic treatment,and the urtication feeling could be completely eliminated. Compared with neutral cellulase and alkali cellulase,acid cellulase(Cellusoft L) was the most effective enzyme for improving the softness and prickle sensation of jute fabric. And the optimum treatment condition was as follows:Cellusoft L 3.0%(o.w.f),JFC 2 g/L,pH value 4.8,liquor ratiol:10,temperature 50℃and time 60 min.Moreover, ammo silicone oil 8040 is a favorable agent for jute fabric softening finishing,the optimum conditions for 8040 treatment was obtained as following:8040 15 g/L,JFC 2 g/L,pick-up 90%,pre-dry temperature 80℃and time 3.0 min,baking temperature 150℃and time 3.5 min.
When glyoxal was applied as crosslinking agent to improve jute fabric morphological stabability.Magnesium chloride(MgCl_2) was an effective catalyzer for the reaction between glyoxal and cellulose.MgCl_2 could reduce the baking temperature,but had negative effect on the breaking strength.The breaking strength could be improved when triethanolamine(TEA),chitosan and sodium hypophosphite(NaH_2PO_2) was applied respectively,while the wrinkle recovery angle(WRA) obviously decreased.The breaking strength could be significantly improved with little effect on WRA When TEA, chitosan and NaH_2PO_2 were applied in one bath.Furthermore,both the breaking strength and WRA increased when ammo silicone oil was applied.The conditions for glyoxal treatment were optimized as following:glyoxal 60 g/L,MgCl_2 60 g/L,chitosan 0.8 g/L,NaH_2PO_2 24 g/L,TEA 10 g/L,ammo silicone oil 8040 20 g/L,pick-up 100%, pre-dry temperature 90℃and time 3 min,baking temperature140℃and time 3 min.
引文
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