含维生素C非水极性介质微乳液体系研究
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摘要
本文以聚四甘油单月桂醚(PGL)、棕榈酸异丙酯(IPP)、异硬脂酸异丙酯(IPI)、甘油(GY)、丙二醇(PG)、1,3-丁二醇(BG)、65%己二醇和35%辛二醇混合物(S68)为主要原料制备了非水极性介质微乳液体系,并研究其相行为。考察了极性介质、温度、乳化剂与助剂的比例和维生素C的加入对相行为的影响；研究了非水微乳液体系耐温性质、流变性质、粘度变化、维生素C在非水微乳液中的保持率以及动物皮肤安全性,获得了以下主要结论：
1)以PGL为主乳化剂,S68为辅助乳化剂,IPP和IPI为油相,分别以GY、PG和BG为非水极性介质,获得了GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPP和GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI六种非水微乳液体系及其相行为。其相行为研究表明,极性介质对相图的微乳区域有一定影响,甘油相图微乳区较大；升高温度和增加助剂S68均有利于扩大相图微乳区域。
2)在上述6种非水微乳液体系基础上,分别获得了含维生素C的GY,PG,BG/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc和GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc六种非水微乳液体系。维生素C的加入对非水微乳液相图微乳区域影响不明显；获得了耐低温(-4℃)和耐高温(48℃)良好的非水微乳液体系GY/PGL/S68/IPI。
3)流变性研究表明,非水微乳液体系GY/PGL/S68/IPP和GY/PGL/S68/IPI为牛顿流体；该非水微乳液体系粘度随着油相的增加而降低,随着维生素C的加入而增加。
4)维生素C在非水微乳液体系GY/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc和GY/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc中保持率90%以上,具有良好的稳定维生素C性能。并进一步明确了含Vc配方的动物皮肤安全性能。
本文研究可望提供稳定维生素C的新载体,用于新型美白和抗衰老化妆品开发。
In this paper, the non-aqueous polar media microemulsion systems were prepared by using poly(4) glycerol mono alkyl ether(PGL), isopropyl palmitate(IPP), isopropyl isotearate (IPI), glycerol(GY), propylene glycol(PG),1,3-butylene glycol(BG), symdiol 68(the mixture of 65% 1,2-hexylenediol and 35% 1,2-octylenediol); and its phase behavior was investigated. The effects of polar media, temperature, the ratio of surfactant and co-surfactant and the addition of vitamin C (Vc) on the phase behavior were investigated. The temperature resistance, rheological behaviour, viscosity property of non-aqueous microemulsion systems, the retention rate of Vc in non-aqueous polar media microemulsion systems and animal skin safety experiment were also investigated. The main conclusions were made as follows:
1) The six non-aqueous microemulsion systems of GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPP and GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI and their phase diagrams could be obtained by using PGL as main emulsifier, S68 as assistant emulsifier, IPP and IPI as oil phase, GY, PG and BG as non-aqueous polar media respectively. The results of phase behavior showed that the effects of different polar media on the microemulsion area were not significant, and the microemulsion area of microemulsion systems containing glycerol was greater than others. The increases of temperature and the content of S68 could both increase the microemulsion area.
2) The six systems of GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc and GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc and their phase diagrams could be obtained on the base of these six non-aqueous microemulsion systems. The influence of Vc on the microemusified zone in phase diagram was insignificant. The GY/PGL/S68/IPI non-aqueous microemulsion system which was stable at -4℃and 48℃could be obtained.
3) The results of rheological behavior research showed that the non-aqueous microemulsion systems of GY/PGL/S68/IPP and GY/PGL/S68/IPI belonged to Newtonian fluid. The viscosity of the non-aqueous microemulsion systems decreased with increase of oil content and it increased with the addition of Vc.
4) The retention rate of Vc could reach more than 90% in non-aqueous microemulsion systems of GY/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc and GY/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc, showing good stability of Vc. The animal skin safety in the formula containing Vc was illustrated further.
The study in this paper is expected to provide new carriers for the stablility of Vitamin C and be applied to develop novel cosmetic products of whitening and anti-aging.
1)以PGL为主乳化剂,S68为辅助乳化剂,IPP和IPI为油相,分别以GY、PG和BG为非水极性介质,获得了GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPP和GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI六种非水微乳液体系及其相行为。其相行为研究表明,极性介质对相图的微乳区域有一定影响,甘油相图微乳区较大；升高温度和增加助剂S68均有利于扩大相图微乳区域。
2)在上述6种非水微乳液体系基础上,分别获得了含维生素C的GY,PG,BG/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc和GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc六种非水微乳液体系。维生素C的加入对非水微乳液相图微乳区域影响不明显；获得了耐低温(-4℃)和耐高温(48℃)良好的非水微乳液体系GY/PGL/S68/IPI。
3)流变性研究表明,非水微乳液体系GY/PGL/S68/IPP和GY/PGL/S68/IPI为牛顿流体；该非水微乳液体系粘度随着油相的增加而降低,随着维生素C的加入而增加。
4)维生素C在非水微乳液体系GY/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc和GY/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc中保持率90%以上,具有良好的稳定维生素C性能。并进一步明确了含Vc配方的动物皮肤安全性能。
本文研究可望提供稳定维生素C的新载体,用于新型美白和抗衰老化妆品开发。
In this paper, the non-aqueous polar media microemulsion systems were prepared by using poly(4) glycerol mono alkyl ether(PGL), isopropyl palmitate(IPP), isopropyl isotearate (IPI), glycerol(GY), propylene glycol(PG),1,3-butylene glycol(BG), symdiol 68(the mixture of 65% 1,2-hexylenediol and 35% 1,2-octylenediol); and its phase behavior was investigated. The effects of polar media, temperature, the ratio of surfactant and co-surfactant and the addition of vitamin C (Vc) on the phase behavior were investigated. The temperature resistance, rheological behaviour, viscosity property of non-aqueous microemulsion systems, the retention rate of Vc in non-aqueous polar media microemulsion systems and animal skin safety experiment were also investigated. The main conclusions were made as follows:
1) The six non-aqueous microemulsion systems of GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPP and GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI and their phase diagrams could be obtained by using PGL as main emulsifier, S68 as assistant emulsifier, IPP and IPI as oil phase, GY, PG and BG as non-aqueous polar media respectively. The results of phase behavior showed that the effects of different polar media on the microemulsion area were not significant, and the microemulsion area of microemulsion systems containing glycerol was greater than others. The increases of temperature and the content of S68 could both increase the microemulsion area.
2) The six systems of GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc and GY, PG, BG/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc and their phase diagrams could be obtained on the base of these six non-aqueous microemulsion systems. The influence of Vc on the microemusified zone in phase diagram was insignificant. The GY/PGL/S68/IPI non-aqueous microemulsion system which was stable at -4℃and 48℃could be obtained.
3) The results of rheological behavior research showed that the non-aqueous microemulsion systems of GY/PGL/S68/IPP and GY/PGL/S68/IPI belonged to Newtonian fluid. The viscosity of the non-aqueous microemulsion systems decreased with increase of oil content and it increased with the addition of Vc.
4) The retention rate of Vc could reach more than 90% in non-aqueous microemulsion systems of GY/PGL/S68/IPP/Vc and GY/PGL/S68/IPI/Vc, showing good stability of Vc. The animal skin safety in the formula containing Vc was illustrated further.
The study in this paper is expected to provide new carriers for the stablility of Vitamin C and be applied to develop novel cosmetic products of whitening and anti-aging.
引文
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