演绎一衣多穿的非凡禅意
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摘要
一件优秀的服装设计作品,一定会触动人的思维,吸引人的眼球。之所以被吸引,大多是因为装饰性和实用性的结合,而如果不单纯表现设计的成型结果,在穿着过程中又赋予变化,那将给欣赏者带去更为惊叹的视觉享受。本文研究的便是服装变换过程的美感,并融入东方禅意这清雅脱俗的特色。将非常规的服装结构设计演绎出舒适、柔和的禅意风格。本文通过对当下国内外现状的分析和现今服装市场需求的调研以及佛教禅宗的深入探索与体会,全新的述说和表达非常规服装结构幻化的一衣多穿服装的禅意韵味,这也是我研究方向的特色与创新点。
服装是一个民族文化的象征,也是人的思想意识和精神风貌的体现,它是一种综合性的艺术,服装本身在一定程度上也会受到各种文化形式的影响,形成很多的艺术风格。“禅”作为一种极高的精神文化形式而融入到服装设计当中,使服装设计在称之为艺术设计的同时,必然要超越人类之表的情怀,反映设计者的内心世界,使设计师的内在意蕴表达的更为突出。
“禅”讲回归天真,用平常的眼光去看待世事,包容万物。“禅”,是我们的真如自性；“禅”,是我们的本来面目；服装设计中有着“禅”这种文化的存在,我们需要去做的是探索,寻找以及体会。生活在喧嚣都市中的人们,内心多在渴求一种至真至美,而古老的禅意则可穿透岁月的风尘,让我们的身心沉静下来。
禅文化在和服装设计艺术相结合的同时,表现出了这种至真至美的性格,融入禅文化的服装设计不是仅仅由局限的某种造型特点和颜色就能表达。首先要表达的是一种理念,应放下具体形象的束缚,脱离其表象,从服装的灵魂来入手,顺应内心的声音,达到服装艺术美的升华,去真实地表达设计者的灵感以及设计意图。“禅”简单、质朴、崇尚自然,由于它不应由过多的语言来描述,所以往往都是由及其简单的方式让人去体悟,因此简约的服装和禅的表达形式的简洁形成一种相似,然而更多的“禅”所意味的简约、朴素、自然、宁静祥和、清新明净的意境更多的还是指设计师的内心世界,而不是单单由服装本身的简单、空洞所能表达的,对于服装中禅文化的理解更多的还是在精神层面上,应该是一种由激情、矛盾渐升出的平淡。
所以说,服装设计从最初的满足实用功能,到形式美的要求法则,再到如今的情感化设计,这正体现出了服装设计作品在人们的认知审美中反复衡量,不断升华。
An excellent fashion design work, will touch people's thinking, attract eyes.The reason is to attract,Mostly because of the combination of decorative and practical,If the performance of the design of the molding is not simply the result,In the wear process also gives the changes,That will give the viewer a more breathtaking visual experience to bring.This study is the beauty of clothing transformation process and the eastern Zen this elegant and refined features. The costume design unconventional interpretation of a comfortable, soft Zen style. Based on the current international situation analysis and needs of today's clothing market research and in-depth exploration of Zen buddhism and experience, describing the new structure and expression of non-conventional illusion of a clothing apparel wear clothing more Zen flavor, which the characteristics of research and innovation.
Clothing is a symbol of national culture, but also the ideological consciousness and the embodiment of spirit, it is a comprehensive art, to some extent clothing itself by the various cultural forms also influence the formation of many of the artistic style. "Zen" as a high form of spiritual culture about clothing designs, called the fashion design in art and design at the same time, bound to the table beyond human feelings, reflect the inner world of the designer, the design Inner Meaning of the expression of the division is more prominent.
"Zen" talk back naive, with normal vision to look at things, inclusive of all things. "Zen", is our true self nature; "Zen" is that we really are; fashion design has a "Zen" the existence of this culture, we need to do is to explore, search and experience. In the hustle and bustle of city life, people, more in the desire for a heart to the true to the United States, and the old days of Zen is to penetrate dust, so that our body and mind calm down.
Zen culture and art of combining fashion design at the same time, showing that the character of truth and beauty, fashion design into the Buddhist culture is not only by the limitations of a certain shape and color characteristics can be expressed. First of all to express a concept, should be bound to lay down specific image, from its appearance, from the clothing of the soul to start, follow the inner voice, the distillation of artistic beauty to clothing, to express the true inspiration for designers and design intent. "Zen" simple, simple, respect for nature, because it should not be too much to describe, they are often are made and simple way to understanding the people, so simple costumes and the simplicity of Zen expressions form a species of similar, yet more "Zen" by means of the simple, plain, natural, quiet and peaceful, clean bright and clean the mood more or is that the designer's inner world, rather than simply by the clothing itself, can not be expressed empty, for clothing more Zen-cultural understanding or in the spiritual realm, should be a by the passion, conflict gradually rose out of the ordinary.
Therefore, the fashion is designed to meet the practical function from the initial to the formal beauty of the requirements of law, to today's Emotional Design, which is reflected out of the fashion design work in people's perception of aesthetic repeatedly measured continuous distillation.
服装是一个民族文化的象征,也是人的思想意识和精神风貌的体现,它是一种综合性的艺术,服装本身在一定程度上也会受到各种文化形式的影响,形成很多的艺术风格。“禅”作为一种极高的精神文化形式而融入到服装设计当中,使服装设计在称之为艺术设计的同时,必然要超越人类之表的情怀,反映设计者的内心世界,使设计师的内在意蕴表达的更为突出。
“禅”讲回归天真,用平常的眼光去看待世事,包容万物。“禅”,是我们的真如自性；“禅”,是我们的本来面目；服装设计中有着“禅”这种文化的存在,我们需要去做的是探索,寻找以及体会。生活在喧嚣都市中的人们,内心多在渴求一种至真至美,而古老的禅意则可穿透岁月的风尘,让我们的身心沉静下来。
禅文化在和服装设计艺术相结合的同时,表现出了这种至真至美的性格,融入禅文化的服装设计不是仅仅由局限的某种造型特点和颜色就能表达。首先要表达的是一种理念,应放下具体形象的束缚,脱离其表象,从服装的灵魂来入手,顺应内心的声音,达到服装艺术美的升华,去真实地表达设计者的灵感以及设计意图。“禅”简单、质朴、崇尚自然,由于它不应由过多的语言来描述,所以往往都是由及其简单的方式让人去体悟,因此简约的服装和禅的表达形式的简洁形成一种相似,然而更多的“禅”所意味的简约、朴素、自然、宁静祥和、清新明净的意境更多的还是指设计师的内心世界,而不是单单由服装本身的简单、空洞所能表达的,对于服装中禅文化的理解更多的还是在精神层面上,应该是一种由激情、矛盾渐升出的平淡。
所以说,服装设计从最初的满足实用功能,到形式美的要求法则,再到如今的情感化设计,这正体现出了服装设计作品在人们的认知审美中反复衡量,不断升华。
An excellent fashion design work, will touch people's thinking, attract eyes.The reason is to attract,Mostly because of the combination of decorative and practical,If the performance of the design of the molding is not simply the result,In the wear process also gives the changes,That will give the viewer a more breathtaking visual experience to bring.This study is the beauty of clothing transformation process and the eastern Zen this elegant and refined features. The costume design unconventional interpretation of a comfortable, soft Zen style. Based on the current international situation analysis and needs of today's clothing market research and in-depth exploration of Zen buddhism and experience, describing the new structure and expression of non-conventional illusion of a clothing apparel wear clothing more Zen flavor, which the characteristics of research and innovation.
Clothing is a symbol of national culture, but also the ideological consciousness and the embodiment of spirit, it is a comprehensive art, to some extent clothing itself by the various cultural forms also influence the formation of many of the artistic style. "Zen" as a high form of spiritual culture about clothing designs, called the fashion design in art and design at the same time, bound to the table beyond human feelings, reflect the inner world of the designer, the design Inner Meaning of the expression of the division is more prominent.
"Zen" talk back naive, with normal vision to look at things, inclusive of all things. "Zen", is our true self nature; "Zen" is that we really are; fashion design has a "Zen" the existence of this culture, we need to do is to explore, search and experience. In the hustle and bustle of city life, people, more in the desire for a heart to the true to the United States, and the old days of Zen is to penetrate dust, so that our body and mind calm down.
Zen culture and art of combining fashion design at the same time, showing that the character of truth and beauty, fashion design into the Buddhist culture is not only by the limitations of a certain shape and color characteristics can be expressed. First of all to express a concept, should be bound to lay down specific image, from its appearance, from the clothing of the soul to start, follow the inner voice, the distillation of artistic beauty to clothing, to express the true inspiration for designers and design intent. "Zen" simple, simple, respect for nature, because it should not be too much to describe, they are often are made and simple way to understanding the people, so simple costumes and the simplicity of Zen expressions form a species of similar, yet more "Zen" by means of the simple, plain, natural, quiet and peaceful, clean bright and clean the mood more or is that the designer's inner world, rather than simply by the clothing itself, can not be expressed empty, for clothing more Zen-cultural understanding or in the spiritual realm, should be a by the passion, conflict gradually rose out of the ordinary.
Therefore, the fashion is designed to meet the practical function from the initial to the formal beauty of the requirements of law, to today's Emotional Design, which is reflected out of the fashion design work in people's perception of aesthetic repeatedly measured continuous distillation.
引文
[1]乔南.禅宗美学与现代服装设计追求探究——禅宗美学的自然观与现代服装设计[J].苏州：苏州大学出版社,2009
[2]余卫华.禅宗对现代服装设计的影响[J].苏州：苏州大学出版社,2009
[3]杨柳.非常规结构线对服装造型的影响研究[J].西南师范大学学报,2010
[4]彭富春.禅宗的心灵之道[J].宗教哲学.武汉大学哲学学院,2009
[5]乔南.禅宗与自然主义服装设计研究[J].作家杂志.河北科技大学纺织服装学院,2010
[6]薛瑰一.后现代美学中的禅宗思想[J].科教文化,2008
[7]石峻.中国佛教思想资料选编[M].北京：中华书局,1987.6-29
[8]南怀瑾.中国佛教发展史略[M].上海：复旦大学出版社,1996.9-50
[9]吴言生.中国禅学(第二卷)[M].北京：中华书局,2002.5-10
[10]铃木大拙(日).禅与生活[M].光明日报出版社,1986.3-12
[11]韩雪飞,邱佩娜.时装结构设计创意初探[J].纺织服装周刊,2007
[12]王玉莲.浅谈服装结构设计的“无结构形式”[J].苏州大学出版社,2007
[13]刘咏梅,刘瑜.灵感于不规则结构造型的服装设计[J].江南大学学报,2004
[14]吴波.论单件服装的多种穿着方式[J].装饰,2006
[15]金枝.服装结构的探讨与研究[J].广西工学院学报,2006
[16]丁锡强,刘国伟.服装斜裁技术的应用[J].纺织学报,2006
[17]李当岐.服装学概论[M].高等教育出版社,1998.49-99
[18]彭永茂.20世纪世界服装大师及品牌服饰[M],中国美术学院出版社.2001.2-100
[19]刘晓刚.时装设计艺术[M].中国纺织大学出版社,1997.36-69
[20]张秋山.服装创意[M].湖北美术出版社,2006.20-90
[21]刘元风.服装艺术设计[M].中国美术学院出版社,2006.124-136
[22]王受之.世界现代设计史[M].中国青年出版社,2002.6-126
[23]于国瑞.时装创意原理与方法[M].中国轻工业出版社,2000.9-129
[24]徐青青.服装设计构成[M].中国轻工业出版社,2001.39-160
[25]包铭新.世界名师服装设计鉴赏辞典[M].上海交通大学出版社,1999.2-199
[26]吴卫刚.服装美学[M].中国纺织出版社,2001.19-89
[27]方立天.禅宗精神—禅宗思想的核心,本质及特点[J].哲学研究,1995
[28]傅千里.十年来禅宗美学研究综述[J].四川师范大学文学院.云梦学刊,2009
[29]原研哉.设计中的设计[M].山东人民出版社,2003.16
[2]余卫华.禅宗对现代服装设计的影响[J].苏州：苏州大学出版社,2009
[3]杨柳.非常规结构线对服装造型的影响研究[J].西南师范大学学报,2010
[4]彭富春.禅宗的心灵之道[J].宗教哲学.武汉大学哲学学院,2009
[5]乔南.禅宗与自然主义服装设计研究[J].作家杂志.河北科技大学纺织服装学院,2010
[6]薛瑰一.后现代美学中的禅宗思想[J].科教文化,2008
[7]石峻.中国佛教思想资料选编[M].北京：中华书局,1987.6-29
[8]南怀瑾.中国佛教发展史略[M].上海：复旦大学出版社,1996.9-50
[9]吴言生.中国禅学(第二卷)[M].北京：中华书局,2002.5-10
[10]铃木大拙(日).禅与生活[M].光明日报出版社,1986.3-12
[11]韩雪飞,邱佩娜.时装结构设计创意初探[J].纺织服装周刊,2007
[12]王玉莲.浅谈服装结构设计的“无结构形式”[J].苏州大学出版社,2007
[13]刘咏梅,刘瑜.灵感于不规则结构造型的服装设计[J].江南大学学报,2004
[14]吴波.论单件服装的多种穿着方式[J].装饰,2006
[15]金枝.服装结构的探讨与研究[J].广西工学院学报,2006
[16]丁锡强,刘国伟.服装斜裁技术的应用[J].纺织学报,2006
[17]李当岐.服装学概论[M].高等教育出版社,1998.49-99
[18]彭永茂.20世纪世界服装大师及品牌服饰[M],中国美术学院出版社.2001.2-100
[19]刘晓刚.时装设计艺术[M].中国纺织大学出版社,1997.36-69
[20]张秋山.服装创意[M].湖北美术出版社,2006.20-90
[21]刘元风.服装艺术设计[M].中国美术学院出版社,2006.124-136
[22]王受之.世界现代设计史[M].中国青年出版社,2002.6-126
[23]于国瑞.时装创意原理与方法[M].中国轻工业出版社,2000.9-129
[24]徐青青.服装设计构成[M].中国轻工业出版社,2001.39-160
[25]包铭新.世界名师服装设计鉴赏辞典[M].上海交通大学出版社,1999.2-199
[26]吴卫刚.服装美学[M].中国纺织出版社,2001.19-89
[27]方立天.禅宗精神—禅宗思想的核心,本质及特点[J].哲学研究,1995
[28]傅千里.十年来禅宗美学研究综述[J].四川师范大学文学院.云梦学刊,2009
[29]原研哉.设计中的设计[M].山东人民出版社,2003.16
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