棉纺织品生态设计研究
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摘要
我国属于纺织大国,但不是纺织强国,可持续发展能力比较弱。其中,棉纺织业在促进国民经济发展和推动社会进步中起着举足轻重的作用,在加入WTO后经济日趋全球化的国际环境下,环保、生态的棉纺织品越来越受到重视。目前,棉纺织企业由于经济利益的驱使,对功能型棉纺织品的研发力度不断提高,注重于技术附加值的研究开发与应用,忽视了对生态环境的保护,棉纺织产业尚不能达到生态环境与经济环境相协调的可持续发展。本文对棉纺织品的整个生命周期进行生态设计研究,以期使棉纺织行业进入可持续发展的轨道,并为我国生态纺织的转型提供理论依据和实践参考。
本论文围绕“生态设计”这一人类社会可持续发展的重要实践手段,研究生态设计机理及国内外现有产品生态设计案例,并根据其经验、理念和原理,构建棉纺织品整个生命周期——“棉花-棉布-服装-循环利用”四个阶段产品的生态设计方案；分别采用能值分析和碳足迹方法分析比较产品生态设计前后的环境影响,通过产品系统-生态环境的协调度参数来检验生态环境保护的程度；进而提出生态附加值的估算方法和实施设想,体现产品生态设计的经济效果,促进生态环境与经济社会的协调发展；初步构建“产品可持续度”评价指标体系,来综合评判产品生态设计效果。
论文的主要研究结果如下：
(1)棉花种植阶段的生态设计方案
技术和种植方式是决定棉花单产及环境影响的关键因素,论文通过能值分析不同种植方式造成的棉花能值消耗的差异,发现完全有机棉的种植方式是对环境生态最有利的一种设计方案,这是我们今后应该努力发展的方向。
(2)棉布生产阶段节能减排的生态设计
棉布生产阶段要实现低能耗、低水耗、低噪音,减少废水、废气、固废等排放的清洁生产方式。本文对棉布生产的织造过程、染整过程以及生产过程的机械设备产生的余热利用和水资源利用展开生态设计研究,认为优化生产方式后的生产过程可以显著降低环境负载力。用能值分析法,比较研究了在生态设计前后投入产出的环境影响,为生态纺织印染业的建设与发展,提供重要的决策建议。
(3)服装制作使用阶段的生态设计
论文在对主流消费群体的调研分析基础上,提出服装的加工制作和使用阶段应该融入多角度的生态设计策略。根据消费者的价值和各种需求,从提供更好的服务使消费者满意的理念出发,通过延长产品满意度、产品附件和满足情感的设计、服务性设计等方案的实施,利用碳排放分析比较了生态设计前后的环境影响,为服装制作使用阶段新价值体系的构建提供基础。
(4)废弃棉纺织品的生态设计以及闭环生态链的构建
本文在国内外棉纺织品废弃回收现状的调研基础上,研究分析了各种回收模式的主要影响因素,从生态层面降低环境影响,经济层面完善二手服装使用的低碳节能,社会层面拓展循环利用渠道这三个角度进行了生态设计研究。通过将废弃棉织品进行深加工成为再生纤维等方式,探索构建棉纺织生产使用阶段的“闭环生态链”,以达到棉纺织品废弃物循环利用,几乎“无废物”处理的境地。
(5)构建“产品系统-生态环境协调度”模型
根据产品系统与环境发展协调机制的研究,构建“产品系统-生态环境协调度”模型,应用能值分析和碳足迹两种量化工具,分别以棉花种植阶段和服装制作使用阶段为例,用协调度对产品生态设计的生态效益进行表征。产品系统-生态环境协调度越高,生态设计对生态环境的贡献越大。论文借助生态附加值的估算,来量化生态设计的经济效益,并提出产品生态附加值实施方案的设想。
(6)构建“产品可持续度”评价指标体系
在生态效益、经济效益、社会效益三个维度优化生态设计方案,初步构建基于“产品可持续度”的评价指标体系,为棉产品的绿色标志提供量化依据。
综上所述,本文对棉纺织品整个生命周期各阶段产品的生态设计方案研究,以及产品系统-生态环境协调度、生态附加值和产品可持续度等指标,可为我国棉纺织产业的可持续发展提供一定的理论和技术支撑。
China is the textile giant but not textile power, and the capacity for sustainable development is relatively weak. Among them, the cotton textile industry plays an important role in promoting economic development and social progress. China's economy becomes increasingly globalized after the accession to the WTO. In the international environment, more and more attentions are being paid to those environmentally friendly, ecological cotton textile products. At present, the cotton textile enterprises, who are driven by economic interests, continuously improve research and development efforts in the functional cotton textile products, and then emphasize the development and application of technological value-added. Unfortunately, these enterprises ignore the protection of ecological environment, and the cotton textile industry still can not achieve sustainable development that the economic environment is in harmony with ecological environment. In order to help the cotton textile industry enter the path of sustainable development, this thesis has carried out the eco-design research on the entire life cycle of cotton textile products, and provided a theoretical basis and practical reference for the transformation of China's ecological textiles.
This thesis focuses on the eco-design mechanism for the sustainable development of human society. Through the case studies of existing product eco-design at home and abroad, this thesis firstly summarized the related experiences, ideas and principles. On this basis, this thesis proposed the systematic eco-design schemes for the whole life cycle of cotton textile products, which mainly is divided into four life cycle stages:cotton cultivation, cotton production, clothing and recycling. This thesis respectively used the emergy analysis and carbon footprint methods to compare and analyze different environmental impacts before and after the product eco-design, and then used the parameters of product-system&eco-environment coordination degree to test the extent of ecological and environmental protection. Furthermore, this thesis proposed the estimation and implementation methods of eco-value-added, which can reflect the economic effects of product eco-design, and promote the coordinated development of ecological environment, economy and society. Finally, this thesis also built a preliminary evaluation index system for the product sustainable degree, which can give a comprehensive evaluation for the effect of product eco-design.
In general, this thesis mainly includes the following contributions:
(1) The eco-design of the cotton cultivation stage
The technology and planting methods are the key factors in determining cotton yields and environmental impact. By emergy analysis, this thesis compared the difference of emergy consumption caused by different planting methods. The results shown that the planting of completely organic cotton is most favorable to ecological environment, which is one direction of the future efforts of research&development.
(2) The eco-design of the cotton production stage with energy saving
In the cotton production stage, the eco-design needs to achieve low power, low water consumption and low noise, which can reduce the emissions of waste-water and waste-gas, and solid waste. This thesis carried out the eco-design research on the cotton weaving, dyeing, utilization of waste heat generated by machinery and equipment, and water resources of cotton production. Then the production process after the optimization can significantly reduce the environmental load. What's more, this thesis used the emergy analysis to compare environmental impacts before and after the eco-design, which can provide important policy recommendations for the construction and development of ecological printing and dyeing industry.
(3) The eco-design of the cotton clothing stage
The thesis finished the investigation and analysis on the mainstream consumer groups of cotton clothing, and then proposed multi-angle eco-design strategies for the clothing manufacture and use process. Based on consumer value and a variety of demands, in order to provide better consumer satisfaction, this thesis proposed a series of strategies such as extending the product satisfaction, product accessories, emotional design and service-oriented design. Furthermore, this thesis used the carbon emission to analyze and compare the environmental impacts before and after the eco-design, which can provide a basis for constructing a new value system of the cotton clothing stage.
(4) The recycling eco-design of used cotton textiles and the construction of eco-closed supply chain
On the basis of the investigation about the waste processing situations of domestic and international cotton textiles, the thesis analyzed the main factors for the various recycling modes, and then carried out the eco-design research from the three dimensions which includes the ecological dimension to reduce the environmental impact, the economic dimension to improve low-carbon and energy saving of second-hand clothing use, the social dimension to expand recycling channels. By deeply processing waste cotton into recycled fiber, this thesis explored how to build a "eco-closed supply chain" of cotton production and consumption, in order to achieve the recycling of cotton textile waste, and realize almost "zero waste"
(5) The construction of "product-system&eco-environment coordination degree" model
Based on the coordination mechanism of product system and environmental development, this thesis built a "product-system&eco-environment coordination degree" model. By respectively taking the cotton cultivation stage and apparel production stage as two examples, this thesis used two quantitative tools such as emergy analysis and carbon footprint to characterize the beneficial result of the eco-design according to the coordination degree. The higher the product-system&eco-environment coordination degree, the greater the eco-design benefit. Furthermore, this thesis used the estimation of eco-value-added to quantify the economic benefits of eco-design, and put forward the implementation idea of product eco-value-added.
(6) The construction of "product sustainable degree" evaluation index system
The eco-design is optimized from such three dimensions as ecological benefits, economic benefits and social benefits. A preliminary evaluation index system is built according to the "product sustainable degree", which can provide a quantitative basis for the green flag of cotton textile products.
In summary, the eco-design schemes throughout various life cycle stages of cotton textile products, and some key indicators such as the product-system&eco-environment coordination degree, eco-value-added and product sustainable degree, can provide the theoretical and technical support for the sustainable development of China's cotton textile industry.
本论文围绕“生态设计”这一人类社会可持续发展的重要实践手段,研究生态设计机理及国内外现有产品生态设计案例,并根据其经验、理念和原理,构建棉纺织品整个生命周期——“棉花-棉布-服装-循环利用”四个阶段产品的生态设计方案；分别采用能值分析和碳足迹方法分析比较产品生态设计前后的环境影响,通过产品系统-生态环境的协调度参数来检验生态环境保护的程度；进而提出生态附加值的估算方法和实施设想,体现产品生态设计的经济效果,促进生态环境与经济社会的协调发展；初步构建“产品可持续度”评价指标体系,来综合评判产品生态设计效果。
论文的主要研究结果如下：
(1)棉花种植阶段的生态设计方案
技术和种植方式是决定棉花单产及环境影响的关键因素,论文通过能值分析不同种植方式造成的棉花能值消耗的差异,发现完全有机棉的种植方式是对环境生态最有利的一种设计方案,这是我们今后应该努力发展的方向。
(2)棉布生产阶段节能减排的生态设计
棉布生产阶段要实现低能耗、低水耗、低噪音,减少废水、废气、固废等排放的清洁生产方式。本文对棉布生产的织造过程、染整过程以及生产过程的机械设备产生的余热利用和水资源利用展开生态设计研究,认为优化生产方式后的生产过程可以显著降低环境负载力。用能值分析法,比较研究了在生态设计前后投入产出的环境影响,为生态纺织印染业的建设与发展,提供重要的决策建议。
(3)服装制作使用阶段的生态设计
论文在对主流消费群体的调研分析基础上,提出服装的加工制作和使用阶段应该融入多角度的生态设计策略。根据消费者的价值和各种需求,从提供更好的服务使消费者满意的理念出发,通过延长产品满意度、产品附件和满足情感的设计、服务性设计等方案的实施,利用碳排放分析比较了生态设计前后的环境影响,为服装制作使用阶段新价值体系的构建提供基础。
(4)废弃棉纺织品的生态设计以及闭环生态链的构建
本文在国内外棉纺织品废弃回收现状的调研基础上,研究分析了各种回收模式的主要影响因素,从生态层面降低环境影响,经济层面完善二手服装使用的低碳节能,社会层面拓展循环利用渠道这三个角度进行了生态设计研究。通过将废弃棉织品进行深加工成为再生纤维等方式,探索构建棉纺织生产使用阶段的“闭环生态链”,以达到棉纺织品废弃物循环利用,几乎“无废物”处理的境地。
(5)构建“产品系统-生态环境协调度”模型
根据产品系统与环境发展协调机制的研究,构建“产品系统-生态环境协调度”模型,应用能值分析和碳足迹两种量化工具,分别以棉花种植阶段和服装制作使用阶段为例,用协调度对产品生态设计的生态效益进行表征。产品系统-生态环境协调度越高,生态设计对生态环境的贡献越大。论文借助生态附加值的估算,来量化生态设计的经济效益,并提出产品生态附加值实施方案的设想。
(6)构建“产品可持续度”评价指标体系
在生态效益、经济效益、社会效益三个维度优化生态设计方案,初步构建基于“产品可持续度”的评价指标体系,为棉产品的绿色标志提供量化依据。
综上所述,本文对棉纺织品整个生命周期各阶段产品的生态设计方案研究,以及产品系统-生态环境协调度、生态附加值和产品可持续度等指标,可为我国棉纺织产业的可持续发展提供一定的理论和技术支撑。
China is the textile giant but not textile power, and the capacity for sustainable development is relatively weak. Among them, the cotton textile industry plays an important role in promoting economic development and social progress. China's economy becomes increasingly globalized after the accession to the WTO. In the international environment, more and more attentions are being paid to those environmentally friendly, ecological cotton textile products. At present, the cotton textile enterprises, who are driven by economic interests, continuously improve research and development efforts in the functional cotton textile products, and then emphasize the development and application of technological value-added. Unfortunately, these enterprises ignore the protection of ecological environment, and the cotton textile industry still can not achieve sustainable development that the economic environment is in harmony with ecological environment. In order to help the cotton textile industry enter the path of sustainable development, this thesis has carried out the eco-design research on the entire life cycle of cotton textile products, and provided a theoretical basis and practical reference for the transformation of China's ecological textiles.
This thesis focuses on the eco-design mechanism for the sustainable development of human society. Through the case studies of existing product eco-design at home and abroad, this thesis firstly summarized the related experiences, ideas and principles. On this basis, this thesis proposed the systematic eco-design schemes for the whole life cycle of cotton textile products, which mainly is divided into four life cycle stages:cotton cultivation, cotton production, clothing and recycling. This thesis respectively used the emergy analysis and carbon footprint methods to compare and analyze different environmental impacts before and after the product eco-design, and then used the parameters of product-system&eco-environment coordination degree to test the extent of ecological and environmental protection. Furthermore, this thesis proposed the estimation and implementation methods of eco-value-added, which can reflect the economic effects of product eco-design, and promote the coordinated development of ecological environment, economy and society. Finally, this thesis also built a preliminary evaluation index system for the product sustainable degree, which can give a comprehensive evaluation for the effect of product eco-design.
In general, this thesis mainly includes the following contributions:
(1) The eco-design of the cotton cultivation stage
The technology and planting methods are the key factors in determining cotton yields and environmental impact. By emergy analysis, this thesis compared the difference of emergy consumption caused by different planting methods. The results shown that the planting of completely organic cotton is most favorable to ecological environment, which is one direction of the future efforts of research&development.
(2) The eco-design of the cotton production stage with energy saving
In the cotton production stage, the eco-design needs to achieve low power, low water consumption and low noise, which can reduce the emissions of waste-water and waste-gas, and solid waste. This thesis carried out the eco-design research on the cotton weaving, dyeing, utilization of waste heat generated by machinery and equipment, and water resources of cotton production. Then the production process after the optimization can significantly reduce the environmental load. What's more, this thesis used the emergy analysis to compare environmental impacts before and after the eco-design, which can provide important policy recommendations for the construction and development of ecological printing and dyeing industry.
(3) The eco-design of the cotton clothing stage
The thesis finished the investigation and analysis on the mainstream consumer groups of cotton clothing, and then proposed multi-angle eco-design strategies for the clothing manufacture and use process. Based on consumer value and a variety of demands, in order to provide better consumer satisfaction, this thesis proposed a series of strategies such as extending the product satisfaction, product accessories, emotional design and service-oriented design. Furthermore, this thesis used the carbon emission to analyze and compare the environmental impacts before and after the eco-design, which can provide a basis for constructing a new value system of the cotton clothing stage.
(4) The recycling eco-design of used cotton textiles and the construction of eco-closed supply chain
On the basis of the investigation about the waste processing situations of domestic and international cotton textiles, the thesis analyzed the main factors for the various recycling modes, and then carried out the eco-design research from the three dimensions which includes the ecological dimension to reduce the environmental impact, the economic dimension to improve low-carbon and energy saving of second-hand clothing use, the social dimension to expand recycling channels. By deeply processing waste cotton into recycled fiber, this thesis explored how to build a "eco-closed supply chain" of cotton production and consumption, in order to achieve the recycling of cotton textile waste, and realize almost "zero waste"
(5) The construction of "product-system&eco-environment coordination degree" model
Based on the coordination mechanism of product system and environmental development, this thesis built a "product-system&eco-environment coordination degree" model. By respectively taking the cotton cultivation stage and apparel production stage as two examples, this thesis used two quantitative tools such as emergy analysis and carbon footprint to characterize the beneficial result of the eco-design according to the coordination degree. The higher the product-system&eco-environment coordination degree, the greater the eco-design benefit. Furthermore, this thesis used the estimation of eco-value-added to quantify the economic benefits of eco-design, and put forward the implementation idea of product eco-value-added.
(6) The construction of "product sustainable degree" evaluation index system
The eco-design is optimized from such three dimensions as ecological benefits, economic benefits and social benefits. A preliminary evaluation index system is built according to the "product sustainable degree", which can provide a quantitative basis for the green flag of cotton textile products.
In summary, the eco-design schemes throughout various life cycle stages of cotton textile products, and some key indicators such as the product-system&eco-environment coordination degree, eco-value-added and product sustainable degree, can provide the theoretical and technical support for the sustainable development of China's cotton textile industry.
引文
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