大豆蛋白纤维的低损伤染整工艺研究
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摘要
进入21世纪，绿色环保纺织品成为纺织品种的新视点，在运用千变万化的织物组织和日新月异的织造、印染新技术的同时，开发符合环保标准的新产品是一个重要途径。绿色环保大豆蛋白纤维的研制成功是人造纤维家族的最新突破，符合我国纤维发展的方向。大豆蛋白纤维是利用榨油后的豆粕通过添加功能性助剂，经湿法纺丝而成的再生蛋白质纤维，该纤维不仅具有单丝纤度细、比重轻、强伸度高、耐酸耐碱性好、光泽好、吸湿导湿性好等特点，还具有羊绒般柔软手感、蚕丝般柔和光泽、棉纤维的吸湿性、羊毛的保暖性等优良服用性能，也是迄今为止唯一由我国科技人员自主开发并在国际上率先取得工业化试验成功的纤维材料。
大豆蛋白纤维作为一种纺织原料，只有经过技术开发和产品开发，才能充分展示出它的独特魅力。大豆蛋白纤维由于其自身难以去除的米黄色，现在的前处理工艺在尽量减少蛋白质损伤的情况下还不能获得必要的白度，造成了对很多色号的限制和色泽鲜艳度的影响，同时匀染性也是该纤维染色中的一大难题，这都需要在工艺制定方面进行更深入的研究。只有在尽可能的减少蛋白质损失，制定合理的染整加工工艺，才能显示出大豆蛋白纤维的优良风格。但是已有的资料表明，目前还没有简单易行的在染整加工工艺中蛋白质含量的测定方法。本论文的工作重心就在于运用凯氏定氮法来检测在大豆蛋白纤维染整加工工艺中蛋白质的变化情况，综合考虑纤维经过染整加工工艺处理后的效果和损伤情况，最终制定出大豆蛋白纤维的低损伤染整加工工艺，为以后对大豆蛋白纤维的进一步研究提供有价值的参考。
大豆蛋白纤维含氮量的工艺条件因素中，主要考虑的是pH、温度、处理时间以及碱剂浓度。从实验结果和讨论可知，温度和碱剂浓度是影响含氮量水平的两个最主要因素，在制定大豆蛋白纤维染整工艺时，应重点考虑。其中pH值接近7时纤维的含氮量最高，并且随着pH偏离中性程度的增大而迅速减少；处理温度低于70℃时，纤维的含氮量较高，随着温度继续升高，纤维的含氮量不断减少，并且较高的处理温度也会影响大豆蛋白纤维的手感；处理时间在60分钟内，纤维含氮量能保持较高的水平；纤维的含氮量随着纯碱浓度的增加而减少，当纯
碱大于30留L时，N%低于2.0%。
大豆蛋白纤维采用淀粉酶退浆、双氧水漂白的前处理工艺效果较好。因为淀
粉酶可以水解经纱上的淀粉浆，而在碱性条件和较高温度下氧漂时，不但能除去
纤维上的色素，而且能除去剩余的淀粉和PVA浆料，使前处理后织物具有较好
的白度和柔软的手感。经过淀粉酶退浆、双氧水氧化漂白的正交试验得出大豆蛋
白纤维前处理低损伤工艺为:退浆工艺:淀粉酶2岁L，pH值7.5，处理温度30
℃，处理时间40min;漂白处理工艺:双氧水8留L，pH值7，处理温度60℃，
处理时间3omin。
大豆蛋白纤维属于再生蛋白质纤维，可用酸性、活性染料进行染色。论文中
采用Argazol Tw系列的活性染料对大豆蛋白纤维进行染色处理后发现pH值对
大豆蛋白纤维的染色有一定的影响。该类染料在近中性的条件下染色后，大豆蛋
白纤维有较高的表观深度。考虑到大豆蛋白质纤维在近中性条件下水解程度最
小，并使染色后可获得较高的固着效率，建议采用在近中性条件下固色的活性染
料，可以保证纤维在色泽鲜艳的同时，还有较好的光泽和手感。而毛用的Lanasol
染料对纤维的表观深度较低，可采用固色剂进行处理从而获得较好的牢度;含有
双活性基团的活性染料对纤维的匀染性较好，色牢度较差，适宜染中浅色。弱酸
性染料Teton和Erionyl染料对纤维之间有较大的范德华力和氢键力，染料上染
后结合较牢固，可以用来染大豆蛋白纤维的深浓色，并且色泽鲜艳，匀染性较好。
而强酸性染料Ncolan的提升性能较低，染料与纤维分子间的库伦力较小，染料
的上染率较低。增加酸的用量，该染料的上染率会有所提高，但在酸性条件下染
色会造成大豆蛋白纤维的蛋白质水解，所以不适宜用来染大豆蛋白纤维。
为获得更好的染色效果，实验中采用了两种阳离子型的固色剂DinfixRF和
DinfixF一100对染后的织物进行固色处理，并通过测定皂洗牢度和摩擦牢度来检
验其效果。实验结果表明，经过固色处理后的大豆蛋白纤维有较高的水洗牢度和
一定的摩擦牢度。
China is the first country that realizes the industry production of soybean protein fiber in the world. This technical achievement fills up the vacancy of original innovation technology of China in the field of chemical synthetic fiber, and also influents the research direction of development of new fiber in the 21st century.
Soybean protein fiber is a new kind of regenerated protein fiber, which meets the demands of environmental protection and is provided with basic advantages of other natural fibers. It has cashmere-like handle, silk-like gentle luster, cotton-like hygroscopicity and vapor permeability, wool-like warmth retaining. And what's more, its exclusive capacities of caring for people's health make it popular in the market.
Nowadays the soybean protein fiber is widely applied in the fashion industry. But at the same time, the lack of sound dyeing and finishing technology is restricting soybean protein fiber's special capacities. Generally speaking, the effect of bleaching to soybean protein fiber is not so good as to gain the satisfactory light or bright shade. Meanwhile, blindly pursuing high whiteness only leads to seriously injured fiber.
In this paper, it is mainly discussed about the low damage pretreatment and dyeing technology of soybean protein fiber. The nitrogen content is analyzed to judge the damage degree of soybean protein by Kjeldahl method of nitrogen determination. The nitrogen contents after processing fabric are evaluated by compared with those of the grey fabric. The processing experiments indicate that, when the value of pH closing to 7, the nitrogen contents are highest, and reduce quickly with the deviating degree of the value of pH from neutral. With the increasing of the temperature, not only the nitrogen contents reduce, but also the hand feeling becomes stiff. The nitrogen contents can keep on a high level if the processing time is controlled in less than 60mins. The protein of the fiber will be decomposed if the concentration of the alkali is too high and when the concentration of sodium carbonate exceeds 30g/L, the
nitrogen contents are lower than 2.0%. After discussing the independent influence of temperature, time, pH value and the concentration of alkali, the optimum pretreatment conditions are confirmed by orthogonal experiments. In the pretreatment, starch enzyme and hydrogen peroxide are respectively applied in the process of desizing and bleaching.
Soybean protein fiber is a kind of regenerated protein fiber, and can be dyed with reactive dye and acid dye. According to the dyeing behavior of reactive dye Argazol TW, it is found that the pH value has some influence on its dyeability. When dyeing the fabric on the condition of the pH value closing to neutral, the building up properties will be best while the damage of protein will be relative lower. Using Lanasol reactive dyes especially for wool dyeing only light shade can be obtained on the soybean protein fiber, so are the other reactive dyes with two functional groups. They can only be used when intensify the fixing process or to the dyeing of light to medium shade. As for the acid dyes, the milling acid dyes has better performance on the soybean protein fiber than the leveling acid dyes, and it gets deep and bright shade because of the mutual attraction between the fiber and the dye ion. The performance of the leveling acid dyes will be improved by adding more acid, but the protein of soybean fiber
will be decomposed because of the effect of concentrated acids.
In order to achieve better washing fastness of soybean protein fiber dyed with acid and reactive dyes, two kinds of fixing agents named Dinfix RF and Dinfix F-100 are applied on the dyed fabric. It is found that the washing fastness and rubbing fastness are improved greatly.
大豆蛋白纤维作为一种纺织原料，只有经过技术开发和产品开发，才能充分展示出它的独特魅力。大豆蛋白纤维由于其自身难以去除的米黄色，现在的前处理工艺在尽量减少蛋白质损伤的情况下还不能获得必要的白度，造成了对很多色号的限制和色泽鲜艳度的影响，同时匀染性也是该纤维染色中的一大难题，这都需要在工艺制定方面进行更深入的研究。只有在尽可能的减少蛋白质损失，制定合理的染整加工工艺，才能显示出大豆蛋白纤维的优良风格。但是已有的资料表明，目前还没有简单易行的在染整加工工艺中蛋白质含量的测定方法。本论文的工作重心就在于运用凯氏定氮法来检测在大豆蛋白纤维染整加工工艺中蛋白质的变化情况，综合考虑纤维经过染整加工工艺处理后的效果和损伤情况，最终制定出大豆蛋白纤维的低损伤染整加工工艺，为以后对大豆蛋白纤维的进一步研究提供有价值的参考。
大豆蛋白纤维含氮量的工艺条件因素中，主要考虑的是pH、温度、处理时间以及碱剂浓度。从实验结果和讨论可知，温度和碱剂浓度是影响含氮量水平的两个最主要因素，在制定大豆蛋白纤维染整工艺时，应重点考虑。其中pH值接近7时纤维的含氮量最高，并且随着pH偏离中性程度的增大而迅速减少；处理温度低于70℃时，纤维的含氮量较高，随着温度继续升高，纤维的含氮量不断减少，并且较高的处理温度也会影响大豆蛋白纤维的手感；处理时间在60分钟内，纤维含氮量能保持较高的水平；纤维的含氮量随着纯碱浓度的增加而减少，当纯
碱大于30留L时，N%低于2.0%。
大豆蛋白纤维采用淀粉酶退浆、双氧水漂白的前处理工艺效果较好。因为淀
粉酶可以水解经纱上的淀粉浆，而在碱性条件和较高温度下氧漂时，不但能除去
纤维上的色素，而且能除去剩余的淀粉和PVA浆料，使前处理后织物具有较好
的白度和柔软的手感。经过淀粉酶退浆、双氧水氧化漂白的正交试验得出大豆蛋
白纤维前处理低损伤工艺为:退浆工艺:淀粉酶2岁L，pH值7.5，处理温度30
℃，处理时间40min;漂白处理工艺:双氧水8留L，pH值7，处理温度60℃，
处理时间3omin。
大豆蛋白纤维属于再生蛋白质纤维，可用酸性、活性染料进行染色。论文中
采用Argazol Tw系列的活性染料对大豆蛋白纤维进行染色处理后发现pH值对
大豆蛋白纤维的染色有一定的影响。该类染料在近中性的条件下染色后，大豆蛋
白纤维有较高的表观深度。考虑到大豆蛋白质纤维在近中性条件下水解程度最
小，并使染色后可获得较高的固着效率，建议采用在近中性条件下固色的活性染
料，可以保证纤维在色泽鲜艳的同时，还有较好的光泽和手感。而毛用的Lanasol
染料对纤维的表观深度较低，可采用固色剂进行处理从而获得较好的牢度;含有
双活性基团的活性染料对纤维的匀染性较好，色牢度较差，适宜染中浅色。弱酸
性染料Teton和Erionyl染料对纤维之间有较大的范德华力和氢键力，染料上染
后结合较牢固，可以用来染大豆蛋白纤维的深浓色，并且色泽鲜艳，匀染性较好。
而强酸性染料Ncolan的提升性能较低，染料与纤维分子间的库伦力较小，染料
的上染率较低。增加酸的用量，该染料的上染率会有所提高，但在酸性条件下染
色会造成大豆蛋白纤维的蛋白质水解，所以不适宜用来染大豆蛋白纤维。
为获得更好的染色效果，实验中采用了两种阳离子型的固色剂DinfixRF和
DinfixF一100对染后的织物进行固色处理，并通过测定皂洗牢度和摩擦牢度来检
验其效果。实验结果表明，经过固色处理后的大豆蛋白纤维有较高的水洗牢度和
一定的摩擦牢度。
China is the first country that realizes the industry production of soybean protein fiber in the world. This technical achievement fills up the vacancy of original innovation technology of China in the field of chemical synthetic fiber, and also influents the research direction of development of new fiber in the 21st century.
Soybean protein fiber is a new kind of regenerated protein fiber, which meets the demands of environmental protection and is provided with basic advantages of other natural fibers. It has cashmere-like handle, silk-like gentle luster, cotton-like hygroscopicity and vapor permeability, wool-like warmth retaining. And what's more, its exclusive capacities of caring for people's health make it popular in the market.
Nowadays the soybean protein fiber is widely applied in the fashion industry. But at the same time, the lack of sound dyeing and finishing technology is restricting soybean protein fiber's special capacities. Generally speaking, the effect of bleaching to soybean protein fiber is not so good as to gain the satisfactory light or bright shade. Meanwhile, blindly pursuing high whiteness only leads to seriously injured fiber.
In this paper, it is mainly discussed about the low damage pretreatment and dyeing technology of soybean protein fiber. The nitrogen content is analyzed to judge the damage degree of soybean protein by Kjeldahl method of nitrogen determination. The nitrogen contents after processing fabric are evaluated by compared with those of the grey fabric. The processing experiments indicate that, when the value of pH closing to 7, the nitrogen contents are highest, and reduce quickly with the deviating degree of the value of pH from neutral. With the increasing of the temperature, not only the nitrogen contents reduce, but also the hand feeling becomes stiff. The nitrogen contents can keep on a high level if the processing time is controlled in less than 60mins. The protein of the fiber will be decomposed if the concentration of the alkali is too high and when the concentration of sodium carbonate exceeds 30g/L, the
nitrogen contents are lower than 2.0%. After discussing the independent influence of temperature, time, pH value and the concentration of alkali, the optimum pretreatment conditions are confirmed by orthogonal experiments. In the pretreatment, starch enzyme and hydrogen peroxide are respectively applied in the process of desizing and bleaching.
Soybean protein fiber is a kind of regenerated protein fiber, and can be dyed with reactive dye and acid dye. According to the dyeing behavior of reactive dye Argazol TW, it is found that the pH value has some influence on its dyeability. When dyeing the fabric on the condition of the pH value closing to neutral, the building up properties will be best while the damage of protein will be relative lower. Using Lanasol reactive dyes especially for wool dyeing only light shade can be obtained on the soybean protein fiber, so are the other reactive dyes with two functional groups. They can only be used when intensify the fixing process or to the dyeing of light to medium shade. As for the acid dyes, the milling acid dyes has better performance on the soybean protein fiber than the leveling acid dyes, and it gets deep and bright shade because of the mutual attraction between the fiber and the dye ion. The performance of the leveling acid dyes will be improved by adding more acid, but the protein of soybean fiber
will be decomposed because of the effect of concentrated acids.
In order to achieve better washing fastness of soybean protein fiber dyed with acid and reactive dyes, two kinds of fixing agents named Dinfix RF and Dinfix F-100 are applied on the dyed fabric. It is found that the washing fastness and rubbing fastness are improved greatly.
引文
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