化妆品功效成分及其研发方向
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- 英文论文题名：Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetics and Their Orientation for Research and Development
- 论文作者：李安良 ; 杨淑琴 ; 郭秀茹
- 英文论文作者：Li Anliang ; Yang Shuqin ; Guo Xiuru ; Beijing university health science center ; Beijing Brilliance Biochemistry Co. ; Ltd.
- 年：2016
- 作者机构：北京大学医学部;北京贝丽莱斯生物化学有限公司;
- 论文关键词：抗衰老 ; 美白 ; 功效成分 ; 机制 ; 维生素A类化合物 ; 烟酰胺 ; 植提物
- 英文论文关键词：anti-aging ; skin-whitening ; bioactive ingredients ; mechanism ; retinoids ; niacinamide ; plant extracts
- 会议召开时间：2016-06-15
- 会议录名称：第十一届中国化妆品学术研讨会论文集
- 英文会议录名称：The Proceedings of the 11th Seminar on Cosmetic China
- 语种：中文
- 分类号：TQ658
- 学会代码：ZGXE
- 会议名称：第十一届中国化妆品学术研讨会
- 会议地点：中国上海
- 主办单位：中国香料香精化妆品工业协会
- 学会名称：中国香料香精化妆品工业协会
- 页数：7
- 文件大小：488k
- 原文格式：O
- 会议级别：全国
摘要
目的化妆品功效成分大多来自维生素、氨基酸、糖苷、相关的衍生物、植物有效成分和植提物,作为皮肤护理成分,要科学地运用他们的化学结构、理化性质和活性,达到有效、提高生物利用度、安全和配方等要求。方法综述这些成分在渗透进入皮肤、作用机制和局部使用的临床效果,为化妆品功效成分的研发提供方向。结果除少数品种,许多功效成分的深入研究不足。讨论应该加强功效成分作用机制和临床效果的投入和研发,大力提升化妆品制剂的研究。
Objective Thebioactiveingredients of cosmeticsare mostly from vitamins,amino acids,glucosides,related derivatives,plant effective components,and plant extracts.As skin care ingredients their chemical structure,physicochemical properties and activity should be utilized scientificallyto meet the requirements of effects,raising of bioavailability,safety and formulation.MethodReviewingpenetration into the skin,mechanism and clinical effect of local use for theseingredientsto provide orientation for research and development of bioactive ingredients in cosmetics.ResultMany of the ingredients lack in-depth study on the problems besides a few varieties.DiscussionShould strengthen investment in research and developmentfor mechanism and clinical effect of thebioactive ingredients,and put a lot of effort into the study of cosmetic formulations.
Objective Thebioactiveingredients of cosmeticsare mostly from vitamins,amino acids,glucosides,related derivatives,plant effective components,and plant extracts.As skin care ingredients their chemical structure,physicochemical properties and activity should be utilized scientificallyto meet the requirements of effects,raising of bioavailability,safety and formulation.MethodReviewingpenetration into the skin,mechanism and clinical effect of local use for theseingredientsto provide orientation for research and development of bioactive ingredients in cosmetics.ResultMany of the ingredients lack in-depth study on the problems besides a few varieties.DiscussionShould strengthen investment in research and developmentfor mechanism and clinical effect of thebioactive ingredients,and put a lot of effort into the study of cosmetic formulations.
引文
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[15]李安良,杨淑琴,郭秀茹.α-D-葡萄糖五乙酸酯合成β-熊果苷[P].CN:102040636A,2013.5.29
[16]Sugimoto.Kazuhisa:Nishimura.Takahisa:Nomura.Koji et al.Inhibitory effects of a-arbutin on melanin synthesis in cultured human melanoma cells and a three-dimensional human skin model Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin[J],2004,27(4):510-514
[17]李安良,杨淑琴,郭秀茹.化妆品活性成分覆盆子酮葡糖苷的研究进展[J].香料香精化妆品,2014,(4):63-6
[18]Yokota T,Ikemoto T,Nakatsugawa H.Nitrogen monoxide scavenger and aging-protecting cosmetic material[P],JP:2000-290177,1999-10-17
[19]刘玉凤,黄枚.红景天苷对脑部疾病作用机制的研究进展现代中药研究与实践2013,27(5):72-6
[20]Zhou,R;Wang,F;Guo,Z et al.Preparation and characterization of resveratrol/hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin inclusion complex using supercritical antisolvent technology[J].Journal of Food Process Engineering,2012,35(4):677-686
[19]Corst jens H A,Declercq L,Eyckmans G,et al.Method for cosmetically treating caspase-14 deficiency[P].US:2012230926,2012-12-09
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[23]Shaheda,Sk Asma;Duraivel,S;Niharika R;et al.A review on natural bioactive compounds as potential anti-wrinkle agents[J].World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences,2014,3(3):528-544
[24]高薪,王峥,王超,等.植物提取物在化妆品中的应用[J].吉林农业,总254(4):318-319
[25]Duell EA,Derguini F,Kang S,et al.Extraction of human epidermis treated with retinol yields retroretinoids in addition to free retinol and retinyl-esters[J].J Invest Dermatol,1996,07(2):178-182
[26]Sorg O,Antilie C,Kaya G,et al.Retinoids in cosmeceuticals[J].Dermatol Ther.2006,19:289-296
[27]Bissett DL,Oblong JE,Saud A,et al.Topical niacinamide provides skin aging appearance benefits while enhancing barrier function[J].J Clin Dermatol 2003,32S:9-18
[28]Tanno O,Ota Y,Kitamura N,et al.Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve theepidermal permeability[J].Br J Dermatol.2000,143:524-531
[29]Jacobson EL,KimH,KimM,et al.A topical lipophilic niacin derivative increases NAD,epidermal differentiation and barrier function in photodamaged skin[J].Exp Dermatol.2007,16:490-499
[2]陈曦,赵艳,孙正刚等.药妆品市场展望[J].日用化学品科学,2014,37(10):6-8,16
[3]杨跃飞.药妆品的核心原料与配方原则[J].日用化学品科学,2011,34(11):8-11
[4]Seto,Tadahiro.Development trend and advancement of skin care cosmetics[J].Fragrance Journal,2010,,38(12):27-32.
[5)史晓菲,韩国药妆风靡.消费日报,20140819,A02版
[6]Levin,Jacquelyn;Momin,Saira B.How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients[J].The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology,2010,3(2):22-41
[7]王天壮.全球药妆品发展概况[J].日用化学品科学,2008,31(6):5-7
[8]安田和人.洪玲珑译.维生素的惊人新药效[M].沈阳:辽宁科技出版社,2000:3
[9]李安良,杨淑琴,郭秀茹.从维生素C-2-磷酸盐粗品制备维生素C-2-磷酸镁的生产工艺[P].
[10]Morelle J,Lauzanne-Morelle E.Therapeutic compositions for the treatment of connective tissues diseases[P].US4208421,1980
[11]蒋惠亮,俞晓峰,方银军.1,4-二棕榈酰羟脯氨酸的合成工艺[J].化工进展,2008,27(8):1254-7
[12]Cassou Blaison,Marie C;Mirabal Padilla,Neisy.Topical skin care composition[P].WO:2014028032A1.20140220
[13]李咏悦,陈雅英.熊果苷在化妆品中的用途[J].日用化学工业,1995,25(6):31-3
[14]李安良,杨淑琴,郭秀茹等.熊果苷的进展[J].日用化学工业,2000,30(2):62-5
[15]李安良,杨淑琴,郭秀茹.α-D-葡萄糖五乙酸酯合成β-熊果苷[P].CN:102040636A,2013.5.29
[16]Sugimoto.Kazuhisa:Nishimura.Takahisa:Nomura.Koji et al.Inhibitory effects of a-arbutin on melanin synthesis in cultured human melanoma cells and a three-dimensional human skin model Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin[J],2004,27(4):510-514
[17]李安良,杨淑琴,郭秀茹.化妆品活性成分覆盆子酮葡糖苷的研究进展[J].香料香精化妆品,2014,(4):63-6
[18]Yokota T,Ikemoto T,Nakatsugawa H.Nitrogen monoxide scavenger and aging-protecting cosmetic material[P],JP:2000-290177,1999-10-17
[19]刘玉凤,黄枚.红景天苷对脑部疾病作用机制的研究进展现代中药研究与实践2013,27(5):72-6
[20]Zhou,R;Wang,F;Guo,Z et al.Preparation and characterization of resveratrol/hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin inclusion complex using supercritical antisolvent technology[J].Journal of Food Process Engineering,2012,35(4):677-686
[19]Corst jens H A,Declercq L,Eyckmans G,et al.Method for cosmetically treating caspase-14 deficiency[P].US:2012230926,2012-12-09
[20]Ceccoli J D,Costello B,Hayward J A,et al.Topical compositions for inhibiting matrix metalloproteases and providing antioxidative activities[P].US:2012058140,2012-01-09
[23]Shaheda,Sk Asma;Duraivel,S;Niharika R;et al.A review on natural bioactive compounds as potential anti-wrinkle agents[J].World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences,2014,3(3):528-544
[24]高薪,王峥,王超,等.植物提取物在化妆品中的应用[J].吉林农业,总254(4):318-319
[25]Duell EA,Derguini F,Kang S,et al.Extraction of human epidermis treated with retinol yields retroretinoids in addition to free retinol and retinyl-esters[J].J Invest Dermatol,1996,07(2):178-182
[26]Sorg O,Antilie C,Kaya G,et al.Retinoids in cosmeceuticals[J].Dermatol Ther.2006,19:289-296
[27]Bissett DL,Oblong JE,Saud A,et al.Topical niacinamide provides skin aging appearance benefits while enhancing barrier function[J].J Clin Dermatol 2003,32S:9-18
[28]Tanno O,Ota Y,Kitamura N,et al.Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve theepidermal permeability[J].Br J Dermatol.2000,143:524-531
[29]Jacobson EL,KimH,KimM,et al.A topical lipophilic niacin derivative increases NAD,epidermal differentiation and barrier function in photodamaged skin[J].Exp Dermatol.2007,16:490-499