Jamdani纱丽的自动化织造研究

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英文篇名：Study on automatic weaving of Jamdani saree 作者：Sajib ; Kumar ; Paul ; 张鲁燕 ; 刘珈利 ; 梁明进 ; 田伟 ; 祝成炎 英文作者：Sajib Kumar Paul;ZHANG Luyan;LIU Jiali;LIANG Mingjin;TIAN Wei;ZHU Chengyan;College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University;College of Textile Technology, Pyongyang Light Industry University; 关键词：Jamdani纱丽 ; 纹样设计 ; 色彩搭配 ; 剪花织物 ; 自动化织造 英文关键词：Jamdani saree;;pattern design;;color matching;;cutting motif fabric;;automatic weaving 中文刊名：SICO 英文刊名：Journal of Silk 机构：浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院丝绸学院;平壤轻工大学纺织技术学院; 出版日期：2019-06-19 08:42 出版单位：丝绸 年：2019 期：v.56;No.663 语种：中文; 页：SICO201907011 页数：5 CN：07 ISSN：33-1122/TS 分类号：70-74

摘要

Jamdani纱丽是孟加拉国最具地理标志性的手工产品,也是孟加拉国文化遗产的典型象征。随着Jamdani纱丽开始融入全球时尚产业,它作为孟加拉国独特的传统服饰具有一定的研究价值。传统的Jamdani纱丽织造采用纯手工编织的方法,该方法生产效率低下,不能满足现今的市场需求。文章总结了Jamdani纱丽的外观色彩效果、织物组织结构和纹样特征,通过选择合适的经纬密和组织在提花机上实现了Jamdani纱丽在提花机上的全自动织造。该方法提高了织造效率,极大地缩短生产时间,为Jamdani纱丽的大批量生产提供了可能性,有助于提高Jamdani纱丽在工业化市场中的竞争力。
        Jamdani saree is one of the Bangladesh's most geographically iconic handmade products. On the other side, it's also the typical symbol of Bangladesh's cultural heritage. With the integration of Jamdani saree into the global fashion industry, it has certain research value as a unique traditional costume in Bangladesh. The traditional weaving method of Jamdani saree is pure hand-woven, which has the problem of low production efficiency and cannot meet the current market demand. In this paper, the appearance color effect, fabric structure and pattern characteristics of Jamdani saree were summarized. On the basis of selecting suitable warp and weft density and weave, the full-automatic weaving of Jamdani saree on jacquard machine was realized. This method improves the weaving efficiency, shortens the production time, provides the possibility for mass production of Jamdani saree, and helps to improve the competitiveness of Jamdani saree in the industrialized market.

引文

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