贾卡提花经编间隔织物的撕裂性能

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英文篇名：Tearing properties of Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric 作者：孙婉 ; 缪旭红 ; 王晓雷 英文作者：SUN Wan;MIAO Xuhong;WANG Xiaolei;Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University; 关键词：经编 ; 间隔织物 ; 贾卡提花 ; 撕裂性能 ; 鞋面材料 英文关键词：warp knitting;;spacer fabric;;Jacquard;;tearing property;;vamp material 中文刊名：FZXB 英文刊名：Journal of Textile Research 机构：江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心; 出版日期：2019-06-15 出版单位：纺织学报 年：2019 期：v.40;No.399 基金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP51727A);; 国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题资助项目(2018-28) 语种：中文; 页：FZXB201906006 页数：6 CN：06 ISSN：11-5167/TS 分类号：37-42

摘要

为实现合理配置贾卡组织结构提高鞋面力学性能,采用鞋面材料常用的8种贾卡提花组织,研究了贾卡提花经编间隔织物及部分单层织物的纵横向的撕裂性能,总结了贾卡提花经编间隔织物的横纵向撕裂机制、织物破坏情况、撕裂曲线特征以及贾卡组织对其纵横向撕裂强力的影响。结果表明:横向撕裂时织物先沿着横向破坏,然后转为沿纵向破坏;纵向撕裂时,织物沿纵向至完全破坏;横向撕裂的曲线锯齿状峰波动较大,而纵向撕裂的曲线较为整齐;撕裂曲线及撕裂特征主要由贾卡面决定,横向撕裂长度主要由撕裂长度较小的一面决定。贾卡面全为薄组织的间隔织物横纵向撕裂强力均最小,在鞋面材料撕裂强力不足时应避免使用。
        In order to improve the mechanical properties of the vamp by rationally configuring the Jacquard structure,eight kinds of Jacquard structure commonly used in vamp materials were adopted to study the tearing properties weftwise and warpwise of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric and some single-layer fabrics. The weftwise and warpwise tearing mechanism,destruction of fabric and the tearing curve characteristics of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric were summarized. The influence of Jacquard structure on the tearing strength of weftwise and warpwise was also researched. When the fabric is transversely torn,the fabric is first broken along the weft direction and then along the warp direction.When the fabric is longitudinally torn,the fabric is destroyed completely in the warp direction. The curve of the weftwise tearing fluctuates greatly,while the warpwise tearing curve is relatively regular. The tearing curve and characteristics are mainly determined by the Jacquard side,and the length of the tearing weftwise is mainly determined by the side with the smaller tear length. The tear strength of Jacquard spacer fabric with a thin structure is minimum either in weft direction or warp direction,which should not be used when the tearing strength of the upper material is insufficient.

引文

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