交织对无缝内衣面料结构与伸缩性的影响
|
摘要
采用平纹添纱组织和N6上机密度设计织造了4组16种交织物,织物的面纱和地纱分别选择cooldry吸湿速干涤纶、Thermolite保暖涤纶、Tencel再生纤维及氨纶/锦纶弹力包芯纱。对织物的纵横向密度、面密度及厚度、拉伸伸长率及弹性回复率进行测试与分析,并采用一元方差分析交织对无缝内衣面料结构规格与伸缩性影响的显著性。结果表明,交织对织物纵横向密度、面密度及厚度、拉伸伸长率影响均十分显著,对织物弹性回复率影响不显著;织物密度、面密度、厚度及拉伸率较大的交织方式为面纱、地纱均为弹力包芯纱与非弹力纱间隔1根排列,或织物面纱为非弹力纱,地纱为弹力包芯纱。研究结果对无缝内衣的设计与开发具有一定的参考价值。
16 kinds(4 groups) of intertexture fabrics were designed and knitted with plain plating stitch and N6 looming densities in the program,using cooldry,thermolite,tencel and core-spun spandex/nylon yarns as the face yarn and the ground yarn respectively.The course count,wale count,surface density and thickness,elongation rate,and elastic recovery were tested.The influence of intertexture on the construction,specification and elasticity of seamless underwear fabric was investigated by analysis of variance.The results showed that intertexture has significant influence on the course count,wale count,surface density,thickness,and elongation rate but little effect on the elastic recovery of the fabrics.For obtaining fabric with greater surface density,thickness,and elongation rate,it is suggested that the way of intertexture be: core-spun spandex yarn and non-spandex yarn are arranged in an interval of 1 strand as the face yarn and the ground yarn,or non-spandex yarn as the face yarn and core-spun spandex yarn as the ground yarn.The research results provide certain reference for the design and development of seamless underwear.
16 kinds(4 groups) of intertexture fabrics were designed and knitted with plain plating stitch and N6 looming densities in the program,using cooldry,thermolite,tencel and core-spun spandex/nylon yarns as the face yarn and the ground yarn respectively.The course count,wale count,surface density and thickness,elongation rate,and elastic recovery were tested.The influence of intertexture on the construction,specification and elasticity of seamless underwear fabric was investigated by analysis of variance.The results showed that intertexture has significant influence on the course count,wale count,surface density,thickness,and elongation rate but little effect on the elastic recovery of the fabrics.For obtaining fabric with greater surface density,thickness,and elongation rate,it is suggested that the way of intertexture be: core-spun spandex yarn and non-spandex yarn are arranged in an interval of 1 strand as the face yarn and the ground yarn,or non-spandex yarn as the face yarn and core-spun spandex yarn as the ground yarn.The research results provide certain reference for the design and development of seamless underwear.
引文
[1]宋广礼.成形针织产品设计与生产[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006.SONG Guangli.Design and Production of FormingKnitted Fabric[M].Beijing:China Textile&ApparelPress,2006.
[2]魏林娜.织物结构对无缝运动内衣面料性能影响的研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2011.WEI Linna.Reserch on the effect of fabric structure onthe performance of seamlesssports underwear[D].Beijing:Beijing Insititute of Fashion Technology,2011.
[3]刘玉玲,李艳梅,孙荪.运动内衣热湿舒适性测试研究及发展趋势[J].上海工程技术大学学报,2010(6):124-126.LIU YuLing,LI Yanmei,SUN Sun.Research anddevelopment trend of testing method on thermal-wetcomfort properties of sports underwear[J].Journal ofShanghai University of Engineering Science,2010(6):124-126.
[4]颜晓茵,邵灵玲.应用于功能性针织内衣的新型纤维[J].浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报,2010(2):6-8.YAN Xiaoying,SHAO Lingling.New fibers applied infunctional knitted underwear[J].Journal of ZhejiangTextile&Fashion Technology,2010(2):6-8.
[5]孟振华,李津.无缝内衣的发展及应用[J].天津纺织科技,2006(3):50-54.MENG Zhenhua,LI Jin.The development andapplication of the seamless knitting underwear[J].Tianjin Textile Science&Technology,2006(3):50-54.
[6]张鑫哲.高性能户外运动内衣面料服用性能研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2010.ZHANG Xinzhe.Reserch on the wearability of highperformance outdoor sports[D].Beijing:BeijingInsititute of Fashion Technology,2010.
[7]匡丽赟.无缝针织内衣产品的开发实践[J].天津工业大学学报,2009,28(5):42-45.KANG Liyun.Practical development of seamless knittingproducts[J].Journal of Tianjin Polytechnic University,2009,28(5):42-45.
[8]LI Min,LIU Yu,ZHANG W Y.Gray syntheticevalution on moisture comfort of sportswear fabrics underthe condition of heavy sweating[J].Journal of DonghuaUniversity,2007,24(1):146-150.
[9]ZHANG X,LI Y,YEUNG K W,et al.A finite elementstudy of stress distribution in textiles with bagging[J].Computational Mechanics Techniques andDevelopments,2000,70(2):235-242.
[10]ZHANG X,YEUNG K W,LI Y.Numericial simulationof 3-D synamic garment pressure[J].Textile ResearchJournal,2000,72(3):245-252.
[2]魏林娜.织物结构对无缝运动内衣面料性能影响的研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2011.WEI Linna.Reserch on the effect of fabric structure onthe performance of seamlesssports underwear[D].Beijing:Beijing Insititute of Fashion Technology,2011.
[3]刘玉玲,李艳梅,孙荪.运动内衣热湿舒适性测试研究及发展趋势[J].上海工程技术大学学报,2010(6):124-126.LIU YuLing,LI Yanmei,SUN Sun.Research anddevelopment trend of testing method on thermal-wetcomfort properties of sports underwear[J].Journal ofShanghai University of Engineering Science,2010(6):124-126.
[4]颜晓茵,邵灵玲.应用于功能性针织内衣的新型纤维[J].浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报,2010(2):6-8.YAN Xiaoying,SHAO Lingling.New fibers applied infunctional knitted underwear[J].Journal of ZhejiangTextile&Fashion Technology,2010(2):6-8.
[5]孟振华,李津.无缝内衣的发展及应用[J].天津纺织科技,2006(3):50-54.MENG Zhenhua,LI Jin.The development andapplication of the seamless knitting underwear[J].Tianjin Textile Science&Technology,2006(3):50-54.
[6]张鑫哲.高性能户外运动内衣面料服用性能研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2010.ZHANG Xinzhe.Reserch on the wearability of highperformance outdoor sports[D].Beijing:BeijingInsititute of Fashion Technology,2010.
[7]匡丽赟.无缝针织内衣产品的开发实践[J].天津工业大学学报,2009,28(5):42-45.KANG Liyun.Practical development of seamless knittingproducts[J].Journal of Tianjin Polytechnic University,2009,28(5):42-45.
[8]LI Min,LIU Yu,ZHANG W Y.Gray syntheticevalution on moisture comfort of sportswear fabrics underthe condition of heavy sweating[J].Journal of DonghuaUniversity,2007,24(1):146-150.
[9]ZHANG X,LI Y,YEUNG K W,et al.A finite elementstudy of stress distribution in textiles with bagging[J].Computational Mechanics Techniques andDevelopments,2000,70(2):235-242.
[10]ZHANG X,YEUNG K W,LI Y.Numericial simulationof 3-D synamic garment pressure[J].Textile ResearchJournal,2000,72(3):245-252.