拉毛丝绸围巾抗掉毛工艺研究
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摘要
针对传统拉毛丝绸围巾因短纤维脱落而粘附于衣物、在穿着过程中令人产生不好视觉观感的缺陷问题,本文重点研究了拉毛丝绸围巾的拉毛织造工艺参数对其抗掉毛性能的影响。通过测试不同条件下的掉毛量,讨论了绢丝纱线单纤维长度、围巾织造组织规格、经纬密度、拉毛次数以及拉毛整理顺序等因素对抗掉毛性能的影响。结果表明:绢纺纱线采用精梳纱且单纤维长度在30mm以上时,拉毛丝绸围巾掉毛量明显下降;织造最为理想的组织结构为四枚破斜纹,且经纬密度适中;织物下机后,先拉毛再进行后整理,能明显提高拉毛丝绸围巾的抗掉毛性能。
For defects of traditional napped silk scarves,e.g.staple fiber falls off and adheres to clothes which produces bad visual perception in the wearing process,this paper studies the influence of napping weaving process parameters of napped silk scarves on anti-hair loss performance and discusses the influence of monofilament length of spun silk yarn,scarf weaving texture specification,thread count,napping times and napping finishing sequence on anti-hair loss performance by testing hair loss volume under different conditions.The experimental result shows that hair loss volume of napped silk scarves obviously decreases when combed yarn is used as spun silk yarn and monofilament length is over 30mm;the ideal texture structure of weaving is four-piece broken twills and thread count is moderate;first napping and then after finishing after fabrics offline can greatly improve anti-hair loss performance of napped silk scarves.
For defects of traditional napped silk scarves,e.g.staple fiber falls off and adheres to clothes which produces bad visual perception in the wearing process,this paper studies the influence of napping weaving process parameters of napped silk scarves on anti-hair loss performance and discusses the influence of monofilament length of spun silk yarn,scarf weaving texture specification,thread count,napping times and napping finishing sequence on anti-hair loss performance by testing hair loss volume under different conditions.The experimental result shows that hair loss volume of napped silk scarves obviously decreases when combed yarn is used as spun silk yarn and monofilament length is over 30mm;the ideal texture structure of weaving is four-piece broken twills and thread count is moderate;first napping and then after finishing after fabrics offline can greatly improve anti-hair loss performance of napped silk scarves.
引文
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[2]葛庆兰.机织围巾产品研究与创新设计[D].苏州:苏州大学,2013.
[3]林竟路.论时尚消费者的围巾设计[J].艺术与设计(理论),2012(5):98-100.
[4]钱飞.真丝绸织造工艺的改进[D].苏州:苏州大学,2005.
[5]王济强,陈胜捷,钱灏,等.真丝绸织造与印染技术发展对比研(四)[J].上海丝绸,2013(4):6-35.
[6]陈水林.用于起绒、剪绒和磨绒的织物[J].国际纺织导报,1999(3):78-83.
[7]浙江丝绸工学院,苏州丝绸工学院.织物组织与纹织学:上册[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,1987:9-79.
[8]俞丹.2008/2009秋冬流行面料——丝缎拉毛提花产品的开发[J].丝绸,2008(7):19-20.