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柿漆染色特征与工艺实践
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  • 英文篇名:Dyeing characteristics and technology of persimmon juice
  • 作者:杨建军 ; 崔岩
  • 英文作者:YANG Jianjun;CUI Yan;Academy of Art & Design,Tsinghua University;School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology;
  • 关键词:柿漆 ; 柿单宁 ; 染色特征 ; 媒染剂 ; 染色工艺 ; 可持续发展
  • 英文关键词:persimmon juice;;persimmon tannin;;dyeing characteristics;;mordant;;dyeing technology;;sustainable development
  • 中文刊名:SICO
  • 英文刊名:Journal of Silk
  • 机构:清华大学美术学院;北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院;
  • 出版日期:2019-05-15 14:39
  • 出版单位:丝绸
  • 年:2019
  • 期:v.56;No.662
  • 基金:北京市社会科学基金项目(18YTB013)
  • 语种:中文;
  • 页:SICO201906005
  • 页数:6
  • CN:06
  • ISSN:33-1122/TS
  • 分类号:31-36
摘要
柿漆取自涩柿青果,具有防水、增韧功能,自古作为渔网、建筑木材及竹木制品、纸制品的涂料使用。中国早在唐代就已经用柿漆染制纺织品,因其所含柿单宁物质遇氧缩合成难溶性高分子化合物,通过亲水性、黏着力和氧化作用等完成染着显色,在染色技术上表现出独特性。通过对柿漆染色特征的研究,分析其在显色调性、色彩牢度和色彩美感韵味等方面显现出的强大优势;根据文献资料记载和染色实践,探究柿漆传统制作技术与染色方法。研究认为,在当今倡导可持续发展和文化复兴战略中,古老的柿漆染色工艺仍然拥有巨大潜力和广泛发展空间。
        Persimmon juice is from green fruit,with waterproof and toughening functions. It has been used as a coating for fishing nets,building timber,bamboo and wood products,and paper products since ancient times. As early as the Tang dynasty,persimmon juice was used to dye textiles in China. Because persimmon tannin was condensed into insoluble polymer compounds when encountering oxygen,and then dyeing was completed through hydrophilicity,adhesion and oxidation, which showed unique characteristics in staining technique. By studying the dyeing characteristics of persimmon juice,the strong advantages of persimmon juice in tone,color fastness and color aesthetic charm were analyzed. Based on the literature review and dyeing practice,the persimmon juice production technology and traditional dyeing methods were explored. It was found that the ancient technology of persimmon juice still has great potential and wide development space in the strategy of sustainable development and revitalization of traditional culture.
引文
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